Brunei

Brunei Darussalam – the "Abode of Peace" – is one of the world's smallest and wealthiest nations, a tiny sultanate on the northern coast of Borneo that has maintained its independence and Islamic monarchy while surrounded by the vast Malaysian states of Sarawak and Sabah. Oil and natural gas have made this nation extraordinarily prosperous, with no income tax for citizens, free education and healthcare, and generous subsidies that make it one of the most comfortable places on Earth to live.

For travelers, Brunei offers a fascinating contrast to its Southeast Asian neighbors. While Bali throbs with nightlife and Bangkok buzzes with street food vendors, Brunei is serenely alcohol-free and quietly conservative, a place where magnificent mosques gleam with gold leaf and the world's largest water village has existed for over a thousand years.

The country's wealth is on full display in the capital, Bandar Seri Begawan, where the Sultan Omar Ali Saifuddien Mosque stands as one of the most beautiful in Asia and the Istana Nurul Iman palace (the world's largest residential palace) occasionally opens for public visits during Hari Raya celebrations. Yet just outside the city limits, pristine rainforest extends across most of the country, home to proboscis monkeys, hornbills, and rich biodiversity.

Brunei is divided into four districts, with the country itself split into two non-contiguous sections by a wedge of Malaysian Sarawak territory. Brunei-Muara District contains the capital and most development. Tutong District is largely agricultural. Belait District is the center of oil and gas industry. Temburong District is the eastern exclave, 90% pristine primary rainforest.

Brunei has a typical equatorial climate – hot, humid, and wet year-round. Temperature stays between 24-32°C (75-90°F) throughout the year, with humidity averaging 79%. Rainfall reaches 2,500-3,000mm annually, wettest November-January. The driest period is February-April, most comfortable for outdoor activities.

A new bridge (opened 2020) now connects Temburong directly to the main part of Brunei, making the pristine rainforest of Ulu Temburong National Park much more accessible for eco-tourism.

Brunei's history stretches back over a millennium, with Chinese records mentioning a kingdom called "Po-ni" in the 7th century. Under Sultan Bolkiah (1485-1524), the Brunei Empire reached its golden age, controlling vast territories including much of Borneo, the Sulu Archipelago, and parts of the Philippine mainland. Kampong Ayer, the water village that still exists today, was the capital of this great maritime power.

Colonial pressures gradually eroded Brunei's power. By the 19th century, Brunei had lost most of its empire – Sarawak went to the "White Rajahs" (the Brooke family) and North Borneo to the British. By 1888, Brunei had become a British protectorate. What saved Brunei was the discovery of oil.

In 1929, oil was discovered at Seria, transforming the sultanate's fortunes overnight. Full independence came on January 1, 1984, with Sultan Hassanal Bolkiah presiding over one of the world's wealthiest per-capita nations. The current Sultan, who has ruled since 1967, is one of the world's longest-reigning monarchs.

The capital city combines Islamic architecture, Malay heritage, and modern development along the banks of the Brunei River. Despite being the main urban center, BSB (as it's commonly known) retains a quiet, almost sleepy atmosphere – traffic is light, shops close early, and the pace of life is unhurried.

Key attractions include the Royal Regalia Museum showcasing the royal collection including the coronation chariot and golden ceremonial items, the Brunei Museum at Kota Batu covering Islamic art and oil history, and the Malay Technology Museum exploring traditional technologies.

The city serves as the gateway to all Brunei exploration, with water taxis constantly crossing the river to Kampong Ayer and tours departing for Temburong rainforest.

Arguably Southeast Asia's most beautiful mosque, this 1958 masterpiece combines Italian marble, English granite, and a golden dome covered in real gold leaf. An artificial lagoon surrounds the mosque, reflecting its elegant minaret, while a ceremonial stone boat (representing Brunei's maritime heritage) floats on the water.

Non-Muslims may visit outside prayer times with appropriate dress. The mosque's interior features hand-woven carpets from Saudi Arabia, chandeliers from England, and stained glass from Europe – a showcase of global craftsmanship funded by oil wealth.

The nearby Jame'Asr Hassanil Bolkiah Mosque, built for the Sultan's 25th anniversary, is Brunei's largest mosque with 29 golden domes representing the Sultan as the 29th ruler of his dynasty.

Directly across the river from the mosque, Kampong Ayer is the world's largest water village, home to approximately 30,000 residents living in stilt houses connected by wooden walkways over the Brunei River. The settlement has existed for over 1,000 years, serving as the capital of the ancient Brunei Empire – European visitors called it the "Venice of the East."

Water taxis provide easy access (about $1-2 per trip), and visitors can explore the wooden walkways, visit the Kampong Ayer Cultural and Tourism Gallery, and experience daily life in this unique community. The village has mosques, schools, police stations, and fire departments – a complete community on the water.

Many guesthouses offer accommodation within the village for those wanting to experience water village life firsthand. Traditional crafts including boat-building, brass casting, and weaving continue among residents.

Brunei's premier eco-tourism destination requires commitment to reach but rewards with untouched primary rainforest. The journey itself is part of the experience – speedboat through mangroves to Bangar town, then longboat up the Temburong River, followed by a trek on plank walkways through the jungle.

The park's highlight is the Canopy Walkway, a series of narrow metal walkways reaching 43 meters into the canopy, offering bird's-eye views of the rainforest and, on clear days, distant mountains. The climb requires reasonable fitness, and heights can be challenging, but the perspective on the forest ecosystem is extraordinary.

Wildlife sightings can include proboscis monkeys (Borneo's endemic big-nosed primate), various gibbons, hornbills, kingfishers, and countless insects. The park protects 500 square kilometers of pristine primary rainforest virtually untouched, with no roads penetrating its interior.

The Sultan's official residence is the world's largest residential palace, with 1,788 rooms, 257 bathrooms, a 110-car garage, and 44 staircases. While normally closed to visitors, the palace opens its gates during Hari Raya celebrations (Eid al-Fitr) when the Sultan personally welcomes guests and serves traditional delicacies.

Thousands of visitors – locals and foreigners alike – queue during Hari Raya to shake hands with the Sultan and enjoy a traditional Malay feast served by palace staff. It's a remarkable experience of royal hospitality that few nations offer.

The palace cost an estimated $1.4 billion to build and covers 200,000 square meters. The Sultan's legendary car collection, housed elsewhere, reportedly includes approximately 7,000 vehicles including over 600 Rolls-Royces.

While Brunei lacks nightlife, the food scene thrives. Traditional Malay dishes include ambuyat (a starchy staple eaten with various sauces), satay, nasi katok (rice with fried chicken and sambal), and rich curries. The Gadong Night Market and various hawker centers offer excellent local fare at very reasonable prices.

Ambuyat

Sago Starch

Sticky, starchy paste eaten communally—Brunei's unique national dish. This recipe serves two.

Ingredients: 240ml sago starch, 480ml hot water, For dipping sauce: tamarind, shrimp paste, chilies.

Preparation: Mix sago with hot water. Then stir until thick and gluey. Make dipping sauce with tamarind, shrimp paste. Use special two-pronged fork to twirl. Then dip in sauce and eat. To finish, traditionally eaten communally.

💡 Ambuyat is almost tasteless—the sauces are essential.

Laksa

Spicy Noodle Soup

Rich coconut curry soup with noodles and toppings. This recipe serves two.

Ingredients: 200g rice noodles, 240ml coconut milk, Laksa paste, Shrimp or chicken, Bean sprouts, egg, Lime, cilantro.

Preparation: Make broth with laksa paste and coconut milk. Then cook noodles separately. Poach protein in broth. Assemble: noodles, broth, toppings. To finish, garnish with herbs and lime.

💡 Balance is key—adjust spice, cream, and acid to taste.

Rendang

Dry Curry Beef

Beef slow-cooked in coconut and spices until dry and intensely flavored. This recipe serves two.

Ingredients: 300g beef, cubed, 240ml coconut milk, Rendang paste (galangal, lemongrass, ginger, chilies), Kaffir lime leaves, Toasted coconut.

Preparation: Blend paste ingredients. Then brown beef with paste. Add coconut milk, simmer. Cook until liquid evaporates. Then continue until meat is dark and dry. Finally, stir in toasted coconut.

💡 True rendang is dry—keep cooking until oil separates.

Important: Brunei is alcohol-free. No alcohol is sold anywhere in the country. Non-Muslims can import limited quantities (2 liters + 12 cans of beer) for personal consumption in private only.

By Air: Brunei International Airport (BWN) is served by Royal Brunei Airlines, Singapore Airlines, Malaysia Airlines, and others, with connections to Singapore, Kuala Lumpur, Hong Kong, Manila, and London.

By Land: Border crossings with Malaysia (Sarawak) are at Kuala Lurah (near BSB) and Kuala Belait. Buses connect with Miri and Kota Kinabalu.

By Sea: Limited ferry services from Labuan (Malaysia) and Lawas (Sarawak).

Brunei is one of the world's few completely dry countries — the sale and public consumption of alcohol has been banned since 1991 under Sharia law, with penalties significantly tightened in 2014. Non-Muslims may import up to two bottles of spirits and 12 cans of beer per entry for personal consumption in private residences, but there are no bars, no pubs, no clubs serving alcohol, and no licensed restaurants. Brunei is the quietest, most sober country in Southeast Asia.

☕ Teh Tarik & Coffee Culture

What Brunei lacks in alcohol it compensates in teh tarik ("pulled tea") — strong tea with condensed milk "pulled" between two cups from a height, creating a thick foam and a theatrically satisfying pour. The gerai (open-air food stalls) and tamu (open-air markets) are where Bruneians socialise over teh tarik and kopi (coffee) with kaya toast and kuih (traditional sweets). The social function that pubs serve in other countries is fulfilled entirely by these food stalls — open late, welcoming, and serving $1 drinks that fuel conversation as effectively as any cocktail.

Teh Tarik · Frothy pulled tea with kaya toast, the golden dome of Omar Ali Saifuddien Mosque reflected in the water. In Brunei, a $1 tea at a gerai food stall is the social institution that pubs serve elsewhere.

Visas: Most nationalities receive visa-free entry for 14-90 days depending on nationality. US citizens get 90 days, UK and EU citizens get 30 days.

Currency: Brunei Dollar (BND), at parity with Singapore Dollar (SGD). Both currencies accepted everywhere. Cards widely accepted.

Language: Malay (official), English widely spoken.

February-April: Driest period, best for outdoor activities and rainforest treks. National Day celebrations (February 23).

Hari Raya (Eid): Usually occurring in spring, when the palace opens to public. Extraordinary experience of royal hospitality.

May-October: Moderate rain but still good visiting conditions. Humidity peaks August-October.

November-January: Wettest months with heavy afternoon showers. Some flooding possible. Can affect Temburong access.

Key Trends: Tourism has recovered dramatically from pandemic lows, with air arrivals more than doubling between 2023 and 2024. Cultural tourism is growing rapidly (+70%). Malaysia remains the top source market via land crossings. Government targets 552,733 tourists by 2029 as part of economic diversification efforts away from oil dependency.

Brunei is the curious anomaly of Southeast Asia. This tiny sultanate, wedged between Malaysian Sarawak, chose oil wealth and Islamic tradition over the tourist development its neighbors embraced. The result? Immaculate mosques, pristine rainforest, and a pace of life untouched by the region's frenzy.

Alcohol-free, often overlooked, but genuinely peaceful—Brunei rewards those seeking Asia's quietest corner. From the golden domes of its magnificent mosques to the ancient water village where life continues much as it has for centuries, from the world's largest palace to pristine rainforests that most of the world has lost – this small sultanate offers something genuinely different.

Brunei offers a rare window into a prosperous Islamic monarchy where oil wealth has preserved rather than destroyed traditional culture. For travelers seeking something beyond the usual Southeast Asian trail, the Abode of Peace delivers exactly what its name promises.