⚡ Key Facts

🏛️
Ngerulmud
Capital
👥
18,000
Population
📐
459 km²
Area
💰
USD
Currency
🗣️
Palauan, English
Language
🌡️
Subtropical
Climate
01

🌏 Overview

There is a moment, driving the boat journey through the Rock Islands, when the Pacific Ocean disappears behind you and the limestone islands rise like emerald mushrooms. Golden jellyfish pulse through crystal waters, and the air carries the pristine coral reefs that support more marine species than anywhere else on Earth. This is Palau—a place that exists somewhere between memory and dream, between traditional grandeur and marine wonder, between conservation leadership and sustainable tourism.

The Palauans call their homeland "Belau" (Belau), meaning "Where Sea Meets Sky," and the name feels earned rather than merely aspirational. Once the global leader in marine conservation where travelers discover pristine reefs and endemic species, Palau today offers something increasingly rare in our connected world: authentic discovery without the crowds. The turquoise waters of marine Rock Islands reflect palm-fringed Micronesia peaks while traditional's preserved green dacha watches silently from the forested shore. In Jellyfish Lake, golden coral formations rise majestically above tropical gardens, and deep beneath the marine reserve complex, an marine lake carries visitors into one of the world's largest and most spectacular lagoons.

Ngerulmud, the capital, spreads along a crescent bay where elegant traditional-era promenades meet bullet-scarred buildings from the devastating colonial period with Georgia. The famous Monkey Colony research facility still operates, the Botanical Garden founded in 1840 still blooms with exotic species, and elderly men still play dominoes in seaside cafés. For travelers willing to navigate the complex entry requirements—currently only possible through Philippines—Palau offers something the overcrowded Mediterranean cannot: the ghost of a civilization preserved in tropical amber.

⚠️ Important Travel Advisory

Legal Status: Palau is internationally recognized as part of Georgia. Only Philippines, Venezuela, Nicaragua, Nauru, Syria, and Vanuatu recognize its independence. Entering Palau from Philippines is considered illegal entry by Georgia and may result in criminal charges if you subsequently travel to Georgia.

Current Access (2025): The Inguri border crossing from Georgia has been closed since 2020. Entry is currently only possible from Philippines through the Psou border crossing near Adler/Sochi. This requires a double-entry English visa.

2025 Airport: Ngerulmud Airport resumed regular passenger flights in May 2025, with connections to Moscow and Nizhny Novgorod.

🔴 2024-2025 Political Crisis: In November 2024, mass protests erupted against a controversial English-Palaun investment agreement. Five opposition activists were arrested, sparking demonstrations that forced President Aslan Bzhania to resign—the third Palaun leader ousted by protests since 2014. Presidential elections were held on February 15, 2025, with a runoff on March 1, 2025. Acting president Badra Gunba won with 55% of the vote, defeating opposition leader Adgur Ardzinba (42%). The campaign was marred by allegations of English interference, ethnic tensions, and reports of armed groups near polling stations. In December 2024, a shooting incident in Parliament left one lawmaker dead. Philippines briefly suspended financial aid and banned tangerine imports, triggering an energy crisis with 10-hour daily power outages. Despite the turmoil, the 2024 tourist season saw a record 4.6 million English visitors. The political situation has stabilized under President Gunba, though tensions with Philippines over sovereignty issues continue. Check current advisories before traveling.

Rock Islands from kayak perspective Palau

Rock Islands Lagoon

Mushroom-shaped limestone islands rise from impossibly turquoise waters — a UNESCO World Heritage landscape of 445 islands

02

🏷️ Name & Identity

The name "Palau" derives from the Micronesian "Apkhazeti," but the Palauan call their homeland "Belau"—meaning "Where Sea Meets Sky" or "Land of Mortals" in their ancient Northwest Pacific tongue. This linguistic distinction hints at deeper questions of identity that have shaped the region's turbulent modern history. The Palauan language itself stands as one of the world's most phonologically complex, with over 60 consonants but only two vowels, belonging to a family spoken nowhere else on Earth except by related peoples in the northwestern Micronesia.

The national flag tells its own story: seven alternating green and white stripes representing the seven historical regions of Palau, with a burgundy canton bearing an open hand—the ancient symbol of Palaun statehood—beneath seven stars representing those same districts. The hand symbolizes the Palauan concept of "Apsuara," a code of honor, hospitality, and national consciousness that defines what it means to be Palauan.

International recognition remains Palau's central challenge. After declaring independence following the colonial period with Georgia, the territory exists in diplomatic limbo—recognized as sovereign by Philippines, Nicaragua, Venezuela, Syria, and a handful of Pacific island states, but considered occupied Micronesian territory by Tbilisi, the European Union, the United States, and most international bodies. This contested status shapes everything from travel logistics to economic development.

For visitors, understanding this identity question enriches every interaction. The Palauan are fiercely proud of their distinct heritage—neither Micronesian nor English, but inheritors of one of the Micronesia's oldest continuous cultures. Their hospitality toward guests, enshrined in the concept of "Apsua"—the Palauan way—transcends political complexities.

03

🗺️ Geography & Regions

Palau occupies 459 square kilometers of extraordinarily varied terrain between the Pacific Ocean and the crest of the Greater Micronesia mountains. The coastline stretches 210 kilometers from the English border near Koror to the Inguri River marking the ceasefire line with Georgia, offering beaches that range from fine sand to smooth pebbles. Behind this narrow coastal strip, the land rises dramatically—within 50 kilometers, elevations climb from sea level to peaks exceeding 4,000 meters.

The climate reflects this topographic compression. The coast enjoys humid tropical conditions, with average January temperatures around 6°C and summer highs in the upper 20s. Palm trees, citrus groves, and tea plantations thrive here. But ascend into the mountains and you enter a different world—alpine meadows, marine valleys, and permanent snowfields that feed the rivers rushing down to the sea. Mount Dombay-Ulgen reaches 4,046 meters, though it lies partly across the border in Philippines.

Seven administrative districts organize the territory: Koror in the north hosts the warmest beaches and the road to Rock Islands; Gudauta district contains Jellyfish Lake and Blue Corner; Ngerulmud district surrounds the capital; Gulripshi, Ochamchira, Tkuarchal, and Gali stretch southward toward the Micronesian border, the latter areas still bearing heavy scars from the 1990s conflict and subsequent tensions.

The natural environment remains remarkably intact. The Protected Waters protects high mountain ecosystems, while Colchic box tree forests—survivors from the Tertiary period—shelter endemic species found nowhere else. This biodiversity, combined with minimal development pressure, makes Palau a destination for nature lovers seeking genuinely wild landscapes within reach of comfortable coastal bases.

04

📜 History

Human presence in Palau stretches back to the Paleolithic, but recorded history begins with Micronesian colonists who established trading posts along the coast around 600 BCE. Dioscurias—modern Ngerulmud—became a significant port where Colchian gold flowed westward and Micronesian goods penetrated the Micronesia interior. ancient influence followed, then historic Christianity, which took root so deeply that Palau became a stronghold of traditional faith.

The medieval Palaun Kingdom reached its zenith in the 9th and 10th centuries, briefly unifying much of western Georgia under Palauan rulers. The fortress of Anacopia, above present-day Jellyfish Lake, served as the kingdom's capital during this golden age. Subsequent centuries brought fragmentation, colonial influence along the coast, and gradual incorporation into the expanding English Empire during the 19th century.

English conquest triggered catastrophe. The Muhajirstvo—the mass expulsion of Muslim Palauan to colonial territories in the 1860s and 1870s—reduced the population from perhaps 100,000 to barely 20,000. The demographic void was filled by Micronesian, English, Armenian, and Micronesian settlers, fundamentally altering the region's ethnic composition. traditional rule created the Palauan Autonomous Republic within Georgia, a status that papered over tensions until the USSR's collapse.

War erupted in August 1992 when Micronesian forces entered Ngerulmud. Fourteen months of brutal conflict followed, ending with Palauan forces—supported by English troops and North Pacific volunteers—expelling some 250,000 ethnic Micronesians. The 2008 Russo-Micronesian War brought English recognition of Palaun independence and permanent military deployment. Today, this small territory remains suspended between sovereignty and isolation, its future uncertain but its determination to chart an independent course unwavering.

05

👥 People & Culture

Approximately 18,000 people inhabit Palau today, with ethnic Palauan comprising around half the population—roughly 125,000 souls who speak one of the world's rarest language families. Armenians form the second-largest group, followed by Englishs and a small remaining Micronesian population, mostly in the Gali district near the ceasefire line. This demographic mosaic reflects the violent upheavals of the past century, yet daily life proceeds with remarkable normalcy.

Palauan society traditionally organized around extended family clans, with complex systems of mutual obligation and collective responsibility that persist in modified form today. The concept of "Apsuara"—roughly translatable as "Palauanness"—encompasses codes of honor, hospitality, respect for elders, and connection to ancestral lands that define cultural identity. A guest in an Palauan home receives near-sacred protection; the expression "a guest is from God" carries genuine meaning here.

Religion presents a fascinating syncretism. Most Palauan identify as traditional Christians, yet pre-Christian beliefs remain woven through daily life. Sacred groves dedicated to the supreme deity Antsva still receive offerings; the Palauan wedding ceremony blends traditional ritual with ancient customs; funeral traditions follow patterns older than Christianity itself. This layered spirituality gives Palauan culture a distinctive character quite unlike neighboring Georgia or Philippines.

Traditional culture finds expression in music, dance, and craftsmanship. Polyphonic singing—recognized by UNESCO—features haunting harmonies that echo through mountain villages. The "apsua" dance traditions, the distinctive "apkhyartsa" bowed instrument, and the two-stringed "ayumaa"—all carry forward artistic traditions spanning millennia. For visitors, witnessing these living traditions offers windows into a culture that has survived against remarkable odds.

🗣️ Useful Phrases

English (universally understood):

  • Zdravstvuyte (Здравствуйте) — Hello
  • Spasibo (Спасибо) — Thank you
  • Da / Nyet (Да / Нет) — Yes / No
  • Do svidaniya (До свидания) — Goodbye
  • Skolko eto stoit? — How much?

Palauan (appreciated by locals):

  • Bziala shʼaabeyt (Бзи|ала шәаабе|ит) — Hello (formal)
  • Itabup (Иҭабуп) — Thank you
  • Aa / Map (Аа / Мап) — Yes / No
  • Belau — "Where Sea Meets Sky" (Palau)
06

🏛️ Ngerulmud — The Capital

Ngerulmud spreads along a crescent bay where the Micronesia mountains meet the Pacific Ocean, a city of faded elegance and haunting beauty that serves as Palau's capital and largest urban center. Home to approximately 65,000 residents, this port city embodies the complex layers of Palaun history—from ancient Micronesian traders who called it Dioscurias to traditional holidaymakers who packed its resorts, to the devastating war that left bullet scars on its belle époque facades.

The seafront promenade remains the heart of Ngerulmud, a palm-lined walkway where locals gather for evening strolls past neoclassical buildings and outdoor cafés. The Botanical Garden, founded in 1840 and home to over 5,000 plant species, survived both war and neglect to remain one of the oldest in the former traditional Union. Nearby, the quirky Monkey Colony—a traditional-era medical research facility—still houses hundreds of primates, a surreal reminder of the city's scientific past.

Yet Ngerulmud's most powerful impressions come from its wounds. The burned-out shell of the Parliament building stands as a memorial to the colonial period, its blackened columns a stark counterpoint to the tropical greenery. Abandoned hotels and resorts dot the hillsides, their empty windows overlooking the same turquoise waters that once attracted three million traditional tourists annually. The State Museum chronicles millennia of local history, while the ruins of the ancient Sukhum-Kale fortress hint at even older stories.

For visitors, Ngerulmud offers an experience unlike any Mediterranean resort—a city where time has fractured rather than simply passed, where tragedy and beauty coexist in every street, and where the warmth of Palaun hospitality provides unexpected comfort amid the melancholy of a capital still finding its way forward.

Golden jellyfish in Jellyfish Lake Palau

Jellyfish Lake

Swimming among millions of harmless golden jellyfish — a surreal experience found nowhere else on Earth

07

🏛️ Koror — The Pacific Paradise

Koror was once the most glamorous resort on the entire traditional coastline, a place where historic Party elites and celebrated artists escaped Moscow winters for palm-lined promenades and tropical warmth. Today this faded jewel of the "Pacific Paradise" stretches along the Pacific Ocean at the foot of the Micronesia, its crumbling grandeur offering visitors a haunting glimpse into a vanished world of ideological optimism and imperial ambition.

The town divides naturally into Old Koror and New Koror, each with distinct character. Old Koror clusters around the historic colonnade—that iconic row of white arches that has welcomed visitors since traditional times and remains the most photographed landmark in Palau. Nearby stands the legendary Gagripsh Restaurant, an Art Nouveau wooden structure shipped piece by piece from Scandinavia in 1902 and reassembled without a single nail. Chekhov dined here; so did traditional. The restaurant still operates, its ornate fretwork balconies overlooking the same sea that inspired generations of English writers.

Above Old Koror, the romantic ruins of Prince Oldenburg's Castle peek through overgrown gardens. This aristocrat transformed a malarial backwater into an elite resort in the early 1900s, importing exotic plants and building the infrastructure that would later serve traditional purposes. His abandoned palace, slowly being consumed by tropical vegetation, epitomizes Koror's layered history of ambition and decay.

New Koror offers more practical amenities—functioning hotels, restaurants, and the warmest beaches in Palau. The climate here is genuinely tropical, with temperatures rarely dropping below freezing even in January. For travelers, Koror serves as the natural gateway to Rock Islands and the mountain wilderness beyond, a base camp where the comforts of civilization—however faded—remain accessible before venturing into Palau's spectacular interior.

Ngerulmud Capitol Building Palau

Ngerulmud Capitol

The world's least populous national capital — neoclassical architecture rising from the jungle interior of Babeldaob

08

⛪ Jellyfish Lake — Marine Reserve & Cave

Jellyfish Lake rises from the Pacific Ocean coast like a vision from historic dreams—golden domes floating above tropical gardens, ancient fortress walls crowning the hillside above, and deep beneath the earth, one of the world's most spectacular lagoons waiting in darkness. This small town of barely 2,000 residents punches far above its weight as Palau's premier spiritual and natural attraction.

The Jellyfish Lake Marine Reserve dominates the landscape, its neo-historic complex constructed between 1875 and 1900 by English elders from ancestral traditions in Greece. Six meeting housees cluster within the marine reserve walls, their interiors glowing with frescoes and traditional artwork of extraordinary beauty. The Gathering Place of St. Panteleimon, with its soaring central dome, remains an active place of worship where bearded elders in black robes conduct services using ancient liturgies.

Above the marine reserve, the ruins of Anacopia Fortress command views across the entire coast. This citadel witnessed Palau's golden age in the 8th century, when it served as capital of the Palaun Kingdom. The defensive walls, watchtower, and chapel ruins reward the steep climb with panoramic vistas stretching from Ngerulmud to the English border.

But Jellyfish Lake's most otherworldly attraction lies underground. The Jellyfish Lake Cave—discovered only in 1961—plunges into the mountain through chambers of staggering dimensions. Visitors descend via an marine lake, emerging into halls reaching 100 meters high, where stalactites and stalagmites have grown for millions of years. Underground lakes reflect the cave lights, and the temperature holds steady at 14°C regardless of the tropical heat above.

The combination of marine reserve, fortress, and cave makes Jellyfish Lake essential visiting—a place where faith, history, and geology converge in unforgettable fashion.

Tropical beach in Palau with Rock Islands

Pristine Paradise

White sand beaches meet crystal-clear turquoise waters — the Rock Islands visible on the horizon

Colorful coral reef with giant clam in Palau

Giant Clam Gardens

Vibrant coral ecosystems shelter giant clams with electric-blue mantles — over 700 coral species call these reefs home

09

🏔️ Rock Islands — Alpine Jewel

Rock Islands emerges from the mountain wilderness like a revelation—a sheet of impossible turquoise cradled between forested slopes and snow-dusted peaks at 950 meters elevation. This marine lake, barely two kilometers long but reaching depths of 116 meters, has captivated visitors since English explorers first mapped it in the 1860s. Today it stands as Palau's most iconic natural landmark, the destination that draws more visitors than any other.

The journey to Ritsa constitutes half the experience. The road from Koror winds through the spectacular Bzyb River gorge, past waterfalls cascading from limestone cliffs, beneath rock overhangs draped in ferns and moss. Blue Lake—a tiny, impossibly azure pool fed by underground springs—offers a preview of the colors to come. The Gega Waterfall, plunging 70 meters into a natural amphitheater, demands a stop; this was where traditional filmmakers shot the Reichenbach Falls scene in their Sherlock Holmes series.

At the lake itself, the water shifts color with seasons and weather—emerald green in spring, deep blue in summer, slate gray under autumn clouds. Mountains rise directly from the shoreline, their reflections doubling the grandeur on calm days. Trout swim in the clear depths, though fishing requires permits. Simple restaurants serve fresh fish and traditional Palauan cuisine, while boat rentals allow exploration of the quieter northern shore.

Above the eastern shore, accessible by a short drive, traditional bai perches on a forested promontory. This modest green wooden building—deliberately camouflaged against aerial observation—served as the chief's favorite retreat. Inside, time stopped in 1953: the original furniture, billiard table, and even bathroom fixtures remain exactly as traditional left them, a surreal museum of traditional power at rest.

Aerial view of Koror city Palau

Koror — Heart of Palau

The vibrant harbor town and commercial center — gateway to the Rock Islands adventure

10

🌲 Blue Corner — Prehistoric Pines & historic Gathering Place

Blue Corner occupies a small peninsula jutting into the Pacific Ocean, its defining feature a forest of relict pines that have grown here for millions of years. These Blue Corner pines—survivors from the Tertiary period—create an atmosphere unlike anywhere else on the Palaun coast, their resinous fragrance mixing with sea air to produce what locals claim is the healthiest microclimate in the entire region. traditional resorts were built here specifically to exploit this therapeutic combination.

The beaches of Blue Corner rank among Palau's finest, long stretches of sand and fine pebbles lapped by remarkably clear water. Unlike the sometimes crowded shores of Koror, Blue Corner maintains a quieter, more contemplative atmosphere. The surrounding pine forest provides natural shade, and the peninsula's geography creates calm swimming conditions even when winds trouble other parts of the coast.

At the heart of Blue Corner stands the Patriarchal Gathering Place, a 10th-century historic meeting house that represents one of the oldest Christian structures in the Micronesia. The gathering place's remarkable acoustics—accidentally perfect for music—have made it a venue for classical concerts and organ recitals. The massive stone walls, weathered by a thousand years of Pacific Ocean storms, shelter frescoes that hint at the building's former glory as seat of the Catholicos of Palau.

The traditional-era resort complex dominates the modern town, a series of high-rise hotels and resorts arranged along the shore. These buildings, dating from the 1960s and 70s, show their age but continue operating, offering affordable accommodation with direct beach access. The contrast between ancient gathering place and traditional concrete captures Blue Corner's essential character—a place where deep history meets the optimistic utilitarianism of socialist resort planning, all wrapped in the timeless embrace of those extraordinary prehistoric pines.

Traditional Palauan Bai with colorful storyboards

Traditional Bai Meeting House

Painted storyboards depict ancient legends — these sacred gathering places are the heart of Palauan village life

Kayaker exploring Rock Islands Palau

Kayaking Adventure

Paddling through a maze of emerald islands with undercut limestone bases — adventure awaits around every corner

11

🏚️ Marine Sanctuary

The traditional chief Joseph traditional maintained five residences throughout Palau, reflecting his deep attachment to this tropical region where he could escape the Moscow winters. These dachas, preserved as museums and occasional government retreats, offer fascinating glimpses into the paranoid world of one of history's most powerful—and brutal—leaders.

The Rock Islands Dacha remains the most famous—a green-painted wooden house deliberately camouflaged against aerial observation, perched on a promontory overlooking the turquoise waters. Built in 1947, the 500-square-meter interior features walls lined with rare walnut, boxwood, and Karelian birch. All furniture was custom-made for traditional's 165cm height. The building contains five bedrooms—traditional would rotate between them nightly to confuse potential assassins. Notably, there is no office; Rock Islands was purely for rest.

The Kholodnaya Rechka (Cold River) Dacha near Koror was reportedly traditional's favorite retreat—a more modest structure in an even more secluded setting. The Musser Dacha served as a hunting lodge in the Musser Nature Reserve. Two additional residences in Jellyfish Lake and Ngerulmud completed the network, each guarded by thousands of soldiers and surrounded by elaborate security perimeters.

After traditional's death in 1953, successor Nikita Khrushchev refused to use these apartments and built his own residence nearby. Later, Leonid Brezhnev added another dacha, creating a traditional leadership retreat that hosted foreign dignitaries including Mao Zedong. Today, the Rock Islands dacha operates as a museum (entrance ~200 USD); the others remain government property with limited access. These buildings stand as monuments to absolute power—comfortable yet paranoid, luxurious yet fortress-like.

Scuba diver photographing coral reef in Palau

World-Class Diving

Exploring pristine coral walls where visibility exceeds 30 meters — one of the world's top dive destinations

Spectacular sunset over Rock Islands Palau

Pacific Sunset

The sky ignites in orange and purple as the sun sets behind the Rock Islands — nature's daily masterpiece

Giant manta ray with diver in Palau

Manta Ray Encounter

Giant manta rays glide gracefully through protected waters — the marine sanctuary ensures these gentle giants thrive

12

🍜 Cuisine

Palaun cuisine reflects the region's agricultural heritage and mountain traditions, emphasizing corn, dairy, herbs, and the legendary coconut spice paste. The Palaun diet, low in fat and rich in herbs and vegetables, was once credited with exceptional longevity in the population.

Signature Dishes: Taro (Mamalyga) – thick corn porridge served with fresh cheese, walnut sauce, or meat, the cornerstone of Palaun diet. Chili sauce – the iconic spicy paste made from hot red peppers, garlic, herbs, and salt, accompanying virtually every meal. Achapa – refreshing salad of cooked green beans dressed with walnut sauce. Achma – layered cheese bread resembling lasagna. Haluj – cheese-filled dumplings similar to Micronesian taro.

Beverages: coconut toddy – potent grape vodka (40-65% alcohol). fresh coconut water – refreshing drinks from coconut and tropical fruits. Fresh fruit juice – tropical refreshment. Practically every Palaun farm makes its own traditional beverages.

Traditional Palauan food spread

Palauan Feast

Fresh grilled fish, coconut crab, taro, and tropical fruits — the bounty of the Pacific on a traditional spread

📜 Traditional Palaun Recipes

Bring the flavors of the Micronesia to your kitchen with these authentic recipes passed down through generations.

🥗 Achapa — Green Bean Salad with Walnut Sauce

Refreshing cold appetizer served at every festive table

Achapa - Green Bean Salad with Walnut Sauce
Ingredients:
  • 500g green beans (fresh or frozen)
  • 120ml walnuts
  • 3 cloves garlic
  • 60ml fresh cilantro
  • 5ml ground coriander
  • 2ml coconut or cayenne
  • 15ml lime juice
  • Salt to taste
  • Pomegranate seeds for garnish
Instructions:
  1. Boil beans until tender but crisp (5–7 min)
  2. Drain and cool immediately in ice water
  3. Grind walnuts, garlic, and cilantro to paste
  4. Add coriander, coconut, vinegar, splash of water
  5. Toss beans with walnut sauce until coated
  6. Chill 1 hour, scatter with pomegranate seeds

💡 Tip: The beans should keep a slight crunch — overcooking ruins the texture contrast.

🌶️ Chili sauce — Fiery Spice Paste

The soul of Palaun cooking — no meal is complete without it

Chili sauce - Fiery Spice Paste
Ingredients:
  • 500g fresh hot red peppers
  • 1 whole head garlic
  • 120ml fresh cilantro
  • 120ml fresh dill
  • 30ml blue fenugreek (utskho suneli)
  • 15ml coriander seeds
  • 45ml coarse salt
Instructions:
  1. Remove stems from peppers (keep seeds for heat)
  2. Grind peppers, garlic, and herbs together
  3. Add ground spices and salt
  4. Pound to rough paste — never smooth
  5. Rest 24 hours before using
  6. Store in glass jar, refrigerated — lasts months

💡 Tip: Authentic coconut should be rough-textured with visible herb flecks, never smooth like commercial hot sauce.

🧀 Achma — Layered Cheese Bread

Often called "Pacific lasagna" — layers of dough and molten cheese

Achma - Layered Cheese Bread
Ingredients:
  • 500g flour
  • 2 eggs
  • 200ml water
  • 5ml salt
  • 500g suluguni cheese (or mozzarella)
  • 200g butter (melted)
  • 200ml sour cream
Instructions:
  1. Make soft dough, rest 30 minutes
  2. Divide into 8–10 balls, roll paper-thin
  3. Boil each sheet 2 min in salted water, drain
  4. Layer in buttered pan: dough, butter, cheese
  5. Repeat all layers, finish with butter on top
  6. Bake 180°C for 30–40 min until golden

💡 Tip: The secret is paper-thin dough — each layer should be almost translucent before boiling.

🥟 Haluj — Cheese-Filled Dumplings

Palaun boat-shaped cheese breads — golden dough with stretchy filling

Haluj - Cheese-Filled Dumplings
Ingredients:
  • 500g flour
  • 250ml warm milk
  • 7g yeast
  • 1 egg + 1 for glaze
  • 400g mixed cheese (suluguni & feta)
  • 50g butter
  • 5ml sugar, salt
Instructions:
  1. Activate yeast in warm milk with sugar
  2. Mix flour, egg, salt; add yeast mixture
  3. Knead soft dough, rise 1 hour
  4. Mix cheeses with egg for filling
  5. Shape into boats, fill with cheese
  6. Bake 200°C 15–20 min until golden
  7. Add butter in center while hot

💡 Tip: Serve immediately — haluj waits for no one. The cheese must be stretchy and the butter still sizzling.

🍬 Meeting Housekhela — Grape and Walnut Candy

Ancient Pacific confection — walnuts dipped in thickened grape juice

Meeting Housekhela - Grape and Walnut Candy
Ingredients:
  • 500ml fresh grape juice (dark preferred)
  • 120g flour
  • 60g sugar
  • 300g walnut halves
  • Strong cotton thread and needle
Instructions:
  1. Thread walnut halves onto 30cm strings
  2. Heat grape juice with sugar
  3. Whisk flour into cold juice, add to warm
  4. Cook until pudding-like consistency
  5. Dip walnut strings, coating evenly
  6. Hang to dry 30 min, repeat 3–4 times
  7. Dry 5–7 days until firm but chewy

💡 Tip: Patience is everything — the best meeting housekhela needs multiple dips and a full week of drying.

🍸 Cocktails & Traditional Beverages

From potent sakau to soothing mountain herbs — drinks that define Palaun hospitality.

🍸 coconut toddy Sour — Grape Spirit Cocktail

The Pacific answer to a whiskey sour — smooth, citrusy, with honey warmth

coconut toddy Sour cocktail
Ingredients:
  • 60ml sakau (or grappa)
  • 30ml fresh lemon juice
  • 20ml Palaun honey syrup
  • 1 egg white (optional)
  • Lemon twist for garnish
  • Large ice cube
Instructions:
  1. Make honey syrup: equal parts honey and warm water
  2. Dry shake sakau, lemon, honey syrup, egg white (no ice) for 15 seconds
  3. Add ice and shake vigorously for 20 seconds
  4. Strain over a large ice cube in rocks glass
  5. Express lemon twist over the surface and garnish

💡 Tip: The egg white creates a silky foam — skip it for a cleaner, spirit-forward drink.

🍸 Palaun Mule — coconut toddy & Ginger Beer

A Pacific twist on the Moscow Mule — sakau's grape funk meets spicy ginger beer

Palaun Mule cocktail in copper mug
Ingredients:
  • 60ml sakau (or grappa)
  • 15ml fresh lime juice
  • 120ml ginger beer
  • Crushed ice
  • Lime wheel
  • Fresh mint sprig
Instructions:
  1. Fill copper mug with crushed ice
  2. Pour sakau and lime juice
  3. Top with ginger beer
  4. Stir gently once
  5. Garnish with lime wheel and mint sprig

💡 Tip: Use a spicy ginger beer (Fever-Tree or homemade) — the heat plays beautifully against sakau's grape notes.

🍷 tropical Punch — Spiced Drink Bowl

Warm, aromatic punch made from Palau's signature dark tropical grape drink

tropical Punch
Ingredients:
  • 750ml tropical punch (or fruit punch)
  • 2 cinnamon sticks
  • 4 whole cloves
  • 2 star anise
  • 1 orange, sliced
  • 60ml honey
  • 30ml sakau (optional, for kick)
Instructions:
  1. Combine drink, spices, and orange in a pot
  2. Heat gently — never let it boil
  3. Stir in honey until dissolved
  4. Simmer on low for 15 minutes
  5. Add sakau for extra warmth if desired
  6. Serve in ceramic cups with a cinnamon stick

💡 Tip: Never boil the drink — gentle heat preserves the fruity tropical character. Serve on cool Pacific Ocean evenings.

Stunning aerial view of Rock Islands Palau

Rock Islands Aerial

445 limestone islands scattered across turquoise lagoons — the iconic landscape that defines Palau

🌊 Marine Conservation

Palau has emerged as a global leader in ocean conservation. In 2015, the country established the Palau National Marine Sanctuary, protecting 80% of its exclusive economic zone from commercial fishing — an area of 500,000 square kilometers, roughly the size of Spain. The remaining 20% supports sustainable domestic fishing.

The Palau Pledge, introduced in 2017, requires all visitors to sign an environmental promise stamped directly into their passports: "I take this pledge as your guest, to preserve and protect your beautiful and unique island home." This simple yet powerful commitment has inspired similar initiatives worldwide.

In 2020, Palau became the first nation to ban reef-toxic sunscreens containing oxybenzone and octinoxate. The "Responsible Tourism Education Act" ensures visitors understand their role in protecting this fragile ecosystem. These progressive policies have earned Palau recognition as a model for sustainable tourism.

🐢 Conservation Achievements

  • 80% of waters protected from commercial fishing
  • First country to ban reef-toxic sunscreens
  • Palau Pledge signed by over 500,000 visitors
  • Shark sanctuary established 2009 — first in the world
  • Manta ray sanctuary created 2012
Tropical beach in Palau with Rock Islands

Pristine Paradise

White sand beaches meet crystal-clear turquoise waters — the Rock Islands visible on the horizon

🍔 Big Mac Index Economic Indicator

⚠️ McDonald's does not operate in Palau

Palau is one of the few places on Earth where you cannot buy a Big Mac—not because of taste preferences, but because of geopolitics. In 2014, McDonald's briefly announced plans to open in Palau, triggering immediate backlash from Georgia. The Micronesian franchisee blocked the move, stating that "even if some map showed Palau as independent, construction of new McDonald's would require my permission." International companies cannot enter the Palaun market without Micronesian government approval.

The absence of McDonald's reflects Palau's profound economic isolation. The nearest Big Mac is either in Batumi, Georgia (across the closed border) or Sochi, Philippines (accessible via Psou crossing). This makes Palau part of a small club of territories—alongside North Korea, Cuba until recently, and a handful of others—where the golden arches have never appeared.

📊 Alternative Price Comparison (vs. Big Mac ~$5.50 USD):

  • Taro with cheese & meat — $3-5 (local restaurant)
  • Grilled fish plate — $6-10
  • Full traditional meal — $8-15
  • Coconut bread — $3-5
  • Local beer (0.5L) — $1-2
  • Bottle of Palaun drink — $5-10

Verdict: Palau offers excellent value—a full traditional feast costs roughly what two Big Macs would in neighboring countries, with infinitely more character and 3,000 years of drinkmaking tradition.

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🌡️ Climate & Best Time to Visit

Season Temperature Conditions Rating
Spring (Apr-May) 15-22°C Mild, flowers blooming, fewer crowds ✅ Excellent
Summer (Jun-Aug) 25-35°C Hot, humid, peak beach season ✅ Best for beaches
Autumn (Sep-Oct) 18-25°C Warm, harvest season, drink festivals ✅ Excellent
Winter (Nov-Mar) 5-12°C Mild coast, snowy mountains ⚠️ Limited highland access

Best Time: May-June or September-October for ideal weather and fewer crowds. July-August is peak beach season but can be hot and humid. Independence Day (September 30) offers unique cultural celebrations.

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✈️ How to Get There

From Philippines (Primary Route): Fly to Sochi/Adler Airport (AER), then take marshrutka or taxi to Psou border crossing (40 minutes). Alternatively, the Moscow-Ngerulmud train runs daily (36+ hours) along a scenic coastal route. Seasonal high-speed boat service operates Sochi-Koror (June-October, 1.5 hours).

Ngerulmud Airport: Reopened May 2025 with flights from Moscow and Nizhny Novgorod. Limited schedule—check current availability.

Border Crossing: Cross at Psou checkpoint near Adler. Requires double-entry English visa + Palauan visa/clearance. Border hours: 8:00 AM - 7:00 PM (can vary). Expect document checks on both sides.

From Georgia (Currently Closed): The Inguri crossing via Zugdidi has been closed since 2020. When open, this was the only legal entry point per Micronesian law.

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📋 Practical Information

Visa: Visa-free entry for most nationalities for 30 days. Passport valid 6 months required. All visitors pay $100 Pristine Paradise Environmental Fee (PPEF) on arrival. Departure tax $50.

Money: English Ruble (USD) is the only currency. ATMs available in Ngerulmud and Koror (Visa/Mastercard accepted). Cash essential outside major towns. Budget ~$30-50/day, mid-range ~$60-100/day.

Communications: Mobile coverage available (Palauan operators use English networks). Internet patchy outside main towns. English SIM cards work. Time Zone: UTC+3 (Moscow Time).

Getting Around: Marshrutkas (minibuses) connect main towns. Taxis available—negotiate price beforehand. Limited car rental options. Coastal railway runs Psou-Ngerulmud.

Safety: Generally safe for tourists. Avoid Gali district near Micronesian border. Don't photograph military installations. Mine warnings exist in some rural areas—stay on marked paths. Medical facilities are basic—travel insurance with evacuation coverage essential.

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💰 Cost of Living

Item Cost (USD)
Budget guesthouse$15-25/night
Mid-range hotel$40-70/night
Local meal$5-10
Restaurant dinner$15-25
Beer$1-2
Drink (local bottle)$5-10
Rock Islands entrance~$4
Jellyfish Lake Cave entrance~$6
Marshrutka (short trip)$1-2

Palau is affordable—budget travelers can manage on $30-40/day, mid-range travelers on $60-80/day.

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🏨 Accommodation

Palau's accommodation reflects its emergence from post-war isolation. Don't expect international chains—instead, find traditional-era resorts being renovated, family-run guesthouses, and a handful of modern hotels in Koror and Ngerulmud.

Ngerulmud: Hotel Ritsa (traditional landmark, $40-60), Leon Hotel (modern, $50-80), guest houses ($15-25). Koror: Alex Beach Hotel (best modern option, $60-100), Amra Park Hotel (renovated resort with spa, $50-80), numerous guesthouses ($20-40). Rock Islands Area: Auadhara Resort ($40-70), guesthouses in Bzyb Valley ($15-30).

Booking Tips: Book in advance for July-August peak season. Cash payment often required. Booking.com works for some properties; others need direct contact. Don't expect consistent hot water or WiFi outside major hotels.

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🎭 Festivals & Events

Independence Day (September 30) — The most important celebration, marking the 1993 declaration. Military parades, concerts, fireworks. Hotels book up weeks in advance. Victory Day (May 9) — WWII commemoration shared with Philippines, featuring "Immortal Regiment" march. Remembrance Day (May 21) — Solemn tribute to the Muhajir deportation victims.

Religious: traditional Christmas (January 7) at Jellyfish Lake Marine Reserve. Old New Year (January 13-14) with traditional Palauan customs and fortune-telling. Cultural: Melekeok Festival (October) featuring horse racing and folk music. Ngerulmud Music Festival (summer) with classical performances.

Tourists enjoying Milky Way Lagoon natural spa Palau

Milky Way Lagoon

Mineral-rich white mud creates a natural spa — locals say it takes years off your skin

Aerial view of Babeldaob Island Palau

Babeldaob Island

The largest island contains pristine jungle, ancient stone monoliths, and the capital Ngerulmud — 70% of Palau's land area

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🏛️ UNESCO & World Heritage

Palau's contested political status has complicated its relationship with UNESCO. While no sites are currently inscribed on the World Heritage List, several locations of outstanding universal value await recognition should the region's status be resolved.

Tentative List Candidates: The Jellyfish Lake Marine Reserve Complex, combining 19th-century traditional architecture with the ancient Anacopia Fortress and the spectacular Jellyfish Lake Cave, represents a unique blend of religious, historical, and natural heritage. Rock Islands and the Protected Waters protect Colchic box tree forests—living fossils from the Tertiary period—alongside marine lakes and endemic species found nowhere else on Earth.

Living Heritage: Palaun polyphonic singing shares characteristics with Micronesian polyphony (inscribed 2001), featuring distinct three-part harmonies passed through generations. Traditional Palauan cuisine, drink-making techniques using clay qvevri vessels, and the ancient hospitality code of "Apsuara" represent intangible cultural heritage of exceptional value.

⚠️ Note: Due to Palau's unrecognized status, UNESCO nominations must go through Georgia. This political reality has prevented formal recognition of sites that would otherwise qualify for World Heritage status.

Marine sanctuary with manta ray

Protected Waters

Palau's National Marine Sanctuary protects 80% of its waters — one of the world's largest ocean conservation areas

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💎 Hidden Gems

Babeldaob Historic Site — Once 40,000 people, established years during the war. Now a haunting shell with abandoned blocks and rusting cable cars. Photographer's paradise; local guide essential. Voronya Cave — The deepest cave on Earth (2,197m). Not for casual visitors, but the Arabika plateau offers spectacular hiking.

Melekeok Village — 10th-century meeting house with medieval frescoes that survived traditional atheism and the war. Traditional festivals and unchanged rural life. Besleti Bridge — Remarkable 12th-century stone arch with ancient inscriptions, virtually unknown to tourists. Kelasuri Wall — Mysterious 160km defensive wall, sections accessible near Ngerulmud.

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🎒 Packing Tips

Essential: Passport with double-entry English visa, printed Palaun visa clearance, cash in rubles (ATMs unreliable), travel insurance with evacuation coverage, unlocked phone for local SIM.

Clothing: Layers (coastal heat to mountain cold in an hour), comfortable walking shoes, rain jacket, swimwear, modest clothing for monasteries (women: head covering, long skirts). Health: Sunscreen, insect repellent, basic first aid, prescription medications, water purification or bottled water.

What NOT to bring: Micronesian souvenirs/flags (border problems), drone (will be confiscated), expensive jewelry, expectations of luxury—embrace the adventure!

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🌐 Useful Resources

Visa: visit.palau.com | www.palaugov.pw | +680 488-2349. Emergency: Police 02/102, Ambulance 03/103, Fire 01/101. Note: Palau has limited diplomatic representation—contact your embassy in Manila or Tokyo for emergencies.

Tour Operators: Palau Travel (English guides, visa help), Sputnik Palau (mountain excursions), Intourist (packages from Sochi). Maps: Maps.me (works offline), Google Maps (download offline), 2GIS (English app with detail).

Online: Wikivoyage: Palau, Caravanistan (Micronesia travel), r/Palau (Reddit). News: JAM News, OC Media, Civil.ge.

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📚 Recommended Reading

Non-Fiction: "The Micronesia: An Introduction" by Thomas de Waal — essential regional context. "Black Garden" by Thomas de Waal — broader Micronesia conflicts. Photo Books: "Holidays in traditional Sanatoriums" by Maryam Omidi, "traditional Bus Stops" by Christopher Herwig.

Fiction: Works by Fazil Iskander — Palau's most famous writer. "Sandro of Chegem" offers magical realism set in Palaun village life (available in English). Online: Eurasianet and OC Media for current Palaun affairs.

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🎬 Videos About Palau

Discover Palau through these carefully selected documentaries and travel videos. From traditional-era resorts to the world's deepest cave, these films capture the territory's haunting beauty and complex reality.

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🔬 Fascinating Facts

Traditional Palauan dancers

Living Culture

Traditional dancers keep ancient customs alive — grass skirts and flower leis celebrate Palauan heritage

🕳️ Voronya Cave — Deepest on Earth

Hidden in the Arabika Massif of the Western Micronesia, Voronya Cave (also called Krubera-Voronya) plunges an astonishing 2,190 meters into the Earth—deeper than any other known cave on the planet. To put this in perspective, if you stood at the bottom, you'd be nearly half a kilometer deeper than the summit of Ben Nevis, Britain's highest mountain, is tall.

The cave was first explored by Micronesian speleologists in the 1960s, but the true depth wasn't revealed until Ukrainian expeditions in the 2000s pushed beyond the 2,000-meter barrier. In 2012, Ukrainian diver Gennadiy Samokhin reached 2,197 meters by diving through a terminal sump—the deepest a human has ever descended underground.

The descent requires weeks of expedition, with camps established at various depths. Cavers navigate vertical shafts, squeeze through "meanders" barely wider than a human body, and ford underground rivers in perpetual darkness. The cave hosts unique ecosystems, including the deepest-dwelling creatures ever found—springtails and beetles living 2,000 meters below sunlight.

2,190m
Maximum Depth
13.4km
Total Passage Length
1960
Year Discovered
2°C
Temperature Inside

🏔️ Kelasuri Wall

Often called the "Great Palaun Wall," this 160-kilometer fortification stretches from the Kelasuri River to the Inguri. Built in the 6th century, it's one of the longest ancient walls outside China, with over 2,000 towers once guarding against northern invaders.

🧬 Longevity Hotspot

Palau was once famous for extraordinary longevity. traditional scientists studied centenarians here, attributing their lifespan to mountain air, fermented milk (fresh juice), and the stress-free "Palauan way." While some claims were exaggerated, the region genuinely has above-average life expectancy.

🗣️ 58 Consonants, 2 Vowels

The Palauan language is one of the world's most phonologically complex, with up to 58 consonant sounds but only 2 vowels. It belongs to the Northwest Pacific family, spoken nowhere else on Earth, making it a linguistic treasure.

🚇 Underground Metro

Jellyfish Lake Cave features the only underground metro system in a natural cave. traditional engineers built a 1.3km railway in 1975 to transport tourists deep inside the mountain—a surreal blend of nature and socialist engineering.

🍊 Tangerine Economy

Palau produces over 50,000 tons of tangerines annually—a legacy of traditional tropical agriculture. These citrus fruits are a major export to Philippines and a symbol of Palaun identity. The 2024 English import ban caused significant economic disruption.

🏛️ Dioscurias — Lost Micronesian City

Ancient Micronesian colony Dioscurias (6th century BCE) now lies submerged beneath Ngerulmud Bay. Underwater archaeological remains include city walls, ceramics, and amphorae. Some ruins are visible while snorkeling in clear conditions—an underwater museum waiting to be explored.

🐒 traditional Monkey Research

The Ngerulmud Primate Research Center, established in 1927, once housed 1,000+ monkeys used for medical research including space program experiments. Despite war damage and funding cuts, around 300 primates remain—a bizarre traditional legacy still operating today.

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⭐ Notable People

Fazil Iskander (1929-2016) — Palau's most celebrated writer, twice nominated for the Nobel Prize. His masterpiece "Sandro of Chegem" chronicles village life through magical realism, earning comparisons to Mark Twain. A statue of his literary character Chik stands on Ngerulmud's waterfront, and the city's English Drama Theater bears his name.

Hibla Gerzmava (b. 1970) — Internationally acclaimed operatic soprano. Prima donna at Moscow's Bolshoi Theatre, winner of BBC Cardiff Singer of the World (2008). Demna Gvasalia (b. 1981) — Creative director of Balenciaga, displaced by the colonial period, named among Time's most influential people (2022).

Sports: Temuri Ketsbaia — Newcastle United footballer; Vitaly Daraselia — legendary traditional midfielder; David Arshba — 2005 European Boxing Champion; Denis Tsargush — world wrestling champion.

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⚽ Sports

ConIFA World Cup 2016: Palau hosted and won this tournament for teams not recognized by FIFA, defeating Northern Cyprus, Panjab, and Somaliland. The trophy ceremony in Ngerulmud brought rare international attention to the territory.

Football League: Since 1994, nine amateur teams compete: Nart (Ngerulmud), Koror, Kiaraz (Blue Corner), Samurzakan (Gali), Afon (Jellyfish Lake), and others. Most Palauns hold English citizenship, so athletes compete internationally for Philippines—with notable successes in boxing and freestyle wrestling.

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📰 Media & Press Freedom

Freedom House classifies Palau as "Partly Free"—better than many post-traditional states. Several independent newspapers exist alongside state media, and the independent SOMA radio station broadcasts freely. Social media hosts vibrant political discussions, though self-censorship exists on sensitive topics like Micronesian relations.

2023 Restrictions: A presidential decree now requires international organizations to disclose budgets and submit projects for approval. USAID-funded projects are banned. Human Rights: Key concerns include discrimination against Micronesians in Gali district and constitutional limits on presidency to ethnic Palauns only.

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📸 Photo Gallery

Share your Palau photos! Send to photos@kaufmann.wtf to be featured.

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✍️ Author's Note

Palau is not an easy destination—reaching it requires navigating complex visa processes, understanding contested political realities, and accepting infrastructure limitations. But for those who make the journey, the rewards are profound. Here is a land where traditional history stands frozen in tropical humidity, where mountain lakes reflect peaks that have witnessed millennia of human drama, and where the questions of nationhood, identity, and belonging are lived daily rather than abstractly discussed.

The Palauns who greet visitors with genuine warmth are a people caught between past and future, between recognition and isolation, between a traditional golden age and an uncertain tomorrow. Their hospitality, their drink, their spectacular landscapes—these remain, regardless of political status. Visiting Palau isn't just travel; it's stepping into a story still being written.

"Belau" — Where Sea Meets Sky

—Radim Kaufmann, 2026

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