Heard Island

Heard Island and McDonald Islands may be the wildest place on Earth. Lying in the Southern Ocean roughly halfway between Australia and Antarctica, this remote Australian territory is a world of smoking volcanoes draped in glacial ice, beaches teeming with millions of penguins and seals, and seas so violent that reaching shore requires courage, luck, and impeccable timing.

The territory comprises Heard Island — a massive, glacier-covered stratovolcano dominated by the 2,745-metre Mawson Peak — and the smaller McDonald Islands group about 43 kilometres to the west. Together they cover just 372 square kilometres of land, but the surrounding marine reserve extends across 65,000 square kilometres of some of the most productive waters on the planet.

No one lives here permanently. No alien species have ever established themselves. The islands are one of the last truly pristine ecosystems on Earth, a place where natural processes unfold exactly as they have for millennia — volcanoes erupt, glaciers advance and retreat, and vast colonies of wildlife breed undisturbed. This extraordinary natural heritage earned the territory its UNESCO World Heritage listing in 1997.

For the rare humans who visit — typically scientists on government-approved research expeditions — Heard Island offers an experience of raw, elemental nature that exists almost nowhere else. The driving westerly winds, the constantly shifting weather, the towering volcano emerging from cloud and ice, and the overwhelming presence of wildlife create an unforgettable encounter with the planet at its most untamed.

Heard Island takes its name from American sea captain John Heard, who sighted the island on 25 November 1853 while sailing the Oriental from Boston to Melbourne. His wife Fidelia provided the first written description and drawings. The McDonald Islands were discovered six weeks later, on 4 January 1854, by Captain William McDonald aboard the Samarang.

The official name — Territory of Heard Island and McDonald Islands (HIMI) — reflects Australia's administration of the territory since 1947, when Britain transferred sovereignty. The territory is governed from Canberra by the Australian Antarctic Division under the Department of Climate Change, Energy, the Environment and Water. Despite being uninhabited, it has its own legal framework under the Heard Island and McDonald Islands Act 1953.

Among the scientific community and amateur radio enthusiasts, the islands are known by their DX entity code "VK0H" — Heard Island is one of the rarest and most coveted locations in ham radio, with DXpeditions here being among the most challenging and expensive operations in the hobby.

Heard Island lies at 53°06'S, 73°31'E in the Southern Ocean, approximately 4,100 km south-west of Perth, 1,700 km from Antarctica, and roughly halfway between Africa and Australia. It sits on the Kerguelen Plateau, an enormous underwater volcanic formation and one of the largest igneous provinces on Earth.

The island is roughly 43 km long and 21 km wide, covering about 368 km². It is dominated by the Big Ben massif, a massive stratovolcano whose summit — Mawson Peak at 2,745 metres — is the highest point in Australian external territories. About 80% of the island is covered by glacial ice, with 12 major glaciers flowing from the summit down to sea level, some with ice up to 150 metres thick.

The landscape is extraordinarily dramatic: ice cliffs form much of the coastline, rock buttresses radiate from Big Ben in all directions, and a remarkable 10-kilometre gravel spit called Elephant Spit extends eastward into the ocean. The Laurens Peninsula on the northwestern tip features the eroded remnants of an older volcanic complex, and sheltered areas like Atlas Cove and Spit Bay provide some of the few accessible landing points.

There are no ports or harbours — ships must anchor offshore, and landings are made by small boat through surf, weather permitting. The coastline extends 101.9 km, and Australia claims a 200-nautical-mile exclusive economic zone around the islands.

Big Ben is a massive active stratovolcano that forms the core of Heard Island. Its summit, Mawson Peak (named after the great Australian Antarctic explorer Sir Douglas Mawson), reaches 2,745 metres — making it the highest mountain under undisputed Australian sovereignty, surpassing mainland Australia's Mt Kosciuszko by over 500 metres.

The volcano is one of only two active volcanoes in Australian territory, the other being on McDonald Island. Satellite imagery has confirmed repeated eruptions, including a notable 2-kilometre-long lava flow observed in July 2000, and activity has been recorded in 1910, 1950–54, 1985–87, 1993, 2000–01, and 2012–16. The contrast of glowing lava against glacial ice is one of nature's most extraordinary sights.

Mawson Peak was first climbed on 25 January 1965 by five members of the Southern Indian Ocean Expedition (the "Patanela expedition"), led by wartime commando Major Warwick Deacock. The ascent required navigating crevassed glaciers, fierce winds, and the uncertain temperament of an active volcano. Few summits in the world are as difficult to reach — the combination of extreme remoteness, terrible weather, and volcanic hazards makes any attempt a serious mountaineering undertaking.

Big Ben's volcanic nature is linked to the Kerguelen hotspot, a deep-Earth mantle plume that has been active for over 100 million years and created the vast Kerguelen Plateau. The volcano provides scientists with an unparalleled "window into the Earth" — one of the criteria for the islands' World Heritage listing.

Heard Island was unknown to humanity until 1853. No indigenous people ever inhabited these remote, ice-covered rocks. Captain John Heard's sighting in November 1853 and Captain William McDonald's discovery of the neighbouring islands in January 1854 opened a brief and brutal chapter of exploitation.

The first landing occurred in March 1855, when American sealers from the vessel Corinthian went ashore at Oil Barrel Point. From 1855 to 1882, successive groups of sealers — mostly American, some Australian — lived on the island in appalling conditions: dark, stinking huts, constant gale-force winds, and months of isolation. They hunted southern elephant seals for their blubber oil. By the time sealing ended around 1877–1882, the elephant seal population had been devastated.

Britain formally claimed the islands in 1910. The great Australian explorer Douglas Mawson visited Heard Island in 1929 during his British, Australian and New Zealand Antarctic Research Expedition (BANZARE). In 1947, Britain transferred sovereignty to Australia, which established a permanent scientific station at Atlas Cove. Australians occupied the station continuously from 1947 to 1955, conducting meteorological observations, geological surveys, and biological research.

Two men died on the island during the 1952 wintering expedition: radio operator Richard Hoseason was swept out to sea, and dog trainer Alastair Forbes died attempting to return to base after being rescued from the water. Their graves remain on the island. The station was closed in 1954 when Australia opened a new base on the Antarctic continent, but the islands have been visited by numerous research expeditions since.

Heard Island and McDonald Islands host one of the greatest wildlife concentrations on Earth. The combination of nutrient-rich sub-Antarctic waters, absence of terrestrial predators, and total freedom from human disturbance creates ideal conditions for vast colonies of marine mammals and seabirds. The numbers are staggering — millions of individual animals crowd onto a few ice-free coastal strips during breeding season.

What makes HIMI extraordinary is not just the abundance of wildlife but its pristine state. Unlike every other sub-Antarctic island group, HIMI has never had a confirmed introduction of alien species. No rats, no cats, no rabbits, no mice — nothing that humans typically bring to islands. This makes it an irreplaceable scientific reference site: the only place where researchers can study sub-Antarctic ecosystems functioning exactly as nature intended.

The wildlife includes four species of penguins, two species of seals in enormous numbers, at least 19 species of breeding seabirds including four species of albatross, and an endemic subspecies of the Heard Island sheathbill and the Heard Island cormorant. The surrounding waters support whales, dolphins, and rich fisheries of Patagonian toothfish (marketed as Chilean sea bass).

Four species of penguin breed on Heard Island, making it one of the most important penguin breeding sites in the sub-Antarctic. King penguins are the stars — their colonies have expanded dramatically since the end of sealing, with tens of thousands of breeding pairs now occupying the island's coastal flats. Their tall, elegant forms with vivid orange ear patches create one of nature's most magnificent spectacles.

Macaroni penguins are present in even greater numbers, with colonies estimated in the hundreds of thousands. These crested penguins with their distinctive golden head plumes nest on rocky slopes. Gentoo penguins also breed here, along with small numbers of eastern rockhopper penguins. The total penguin population across all species is estimated at over two million individuals.

The absence of introduced predators means penguin chick survival rates on Heard Island are among the highest in the world — a stark contrast to islands like Macquarie, where rats and cats historically decimated penguin colonies before eradication programmes.

After the devastation of 19th-century sealing, the seal populations of Heard Island have made a remarkable recovery. Southern elephant seals — the world's largest pinnipeds, with males reaching up to 4,000 kg — now breed in their thousands on the island's beaches. During breeding season, massive beachmasters defend harems of females, and the beaches echo with their extraordinary roaring vocalisations.

Antarctic fur seals have also recolonised Heard Island in spectacular fashion. Almost driven to extinction by sealers across the Southern Ocean, fur seals began reappearing on Heard Island in the 1940s and 1950s, and their population has since exploded to an estimated 30,000–60,000 individuals. Their rapid recovery on this predator-free island demonstrates the resilience of marine mammal populations when given protection.

Leopard seals — the formidable predators of the Antarctic — are occasional visitors, hauling out on beaches between penguin-hunting forays. Their presence adds a dramatic edge to the wildlife dynamics of the coastline.

Beyond the penguins, Heard Island supports at least 19 species of breeding seabirds. The most spectacular are the albatrosses — four species breed here, including the wandering albatross with its three-metre wingspan, the black-browed albatross, the light-mantled sooty albatross, and the grey-headed albatross. Watching these magnificent birds launch from the cliffs into the howling Southern Ocean winds is an unforgettable experience.

Giant petrels, Cape petrels, Antarctic prions, and Wilson's storm-petrels nest in burrows and on cliff ledges. The skies above the island are constantly alive with wheeling, soaring birds riding the powerful winds. The Heard Island cormorant (a subspecies of the imperial shag) is endemic, found nowhere else on Earth, and represents ongoing evolutionary processes in isolation.

The Heard Island sheathbill — an endemic subspecies of the lesser sheathbill — is a curious, dove-like scavenger that patrols penguin and seal colonies, feeding on scraps, eggs, and invertebrates. It is one of the few non-swimming birds to inhabit the sub-Antarctic.

Heard Island and McDonald Islands were inscribed on the UNESCO World Heritage List in 1997 under two natural criteria. The property covers a total area of 658,903 hectares — about 37,000 hectares of land and the remainder marine — making it one of the largest World Heritage sites by area.

Criterion viii (Earth's history and geological features): As the only volcanically active sub-Antarctic islands, HIMI provides a unique "window into the Earth," offering the opportunity to observe ongoing geomorphic processes, volcanic activity, and glacial dynamics in a virtually undisturbed setting. The islands' connection to the Kerguelen hotspot illuminates deep-Earth processes.

Criterion ix (Ecological and biological processes): HIMI represents an outstanding example of significant ongoing ecological, biological, and evolutionary processes. As the only sub-Antarctic islands virtually free of introduced species, with negligible human modification, they provide an irreplaceable baseline for understanding natural ecosystem function. The intact ecosystems support populations of marine birds and mammals numbering in the millions.

The UNESCO Committee particularly noted the islands' exceptional wilderness quality, describing them as the least disturbed of all sub-Antarctic islands — a distinction they continue to hold, protected by extreme remoteness, terrible weather, and strict Australian government regulations.

The McDonald Islands lie about 43 kilometres west of Heard Island and consist of McDonald Island itself, Flat Island, and Meyer Rock. For most of recorded history they were small, barren volcanic remnants — McDonald Island covered just about 1 km² and rose to about 186 metres. Then, in 1992, everything changed.

After approximately 75,000 years of dormancy, McDonald Island's volcano roared back to life. Eruptions in 1992 and 1996 were so dramatic that the island doubled in size, growing to about 2.5 km². Satellite imagery from 2004 showed that new lava flows had connected the previously separate McDonald Island and Flat Island via a low-lying isthmus. The island's height increased by 100 metres.

This is one of the most remarkable examples of volcanic island-building witnessed in modern times. The McDonald Islands are now actively reshaping themselves — a process that scientists can monitor remotely by satellite, providing invaluable data about volcanic processes and the colonisation of new land by plants and animals.

Heard Island's glaciers are among the most responsive climate indicators on Earth. Twelve major glaciers flow from Big Ben's summit to the sea, moving at approximately 250 metres per year — exceptionally fast by global standards. The steep slopes and heavy precipitation create a short glacial turnover period of around 100 years, meaning the ice reacts quickly to temperature changes.

Measurements between 1947 and the present show dramatic glacial retreat, particularly on the island's eastern flank. Several terminal lagoons have formed along the coast where glaciers once reached the sea. Winston Lagoon on the southeast coast is the most notable — a body of water that simply did not exist during the early Australian expeditions. Brown Lagoon and other new water features have appeared as ice retreats.

This retreat is creating new ice-free land that plants and animals are colonising in real time — an extraordinary natural experiment in ecological succession that researchers can observe without the complication of introduced species. Heard Island is therefore one of the most important places on Earth for studying the ecological impacts of climate change in a pristine setting.

Heard Island has one of the most extreme maritime climates on Earth. Located just south of the Antarctic Convergence — where cold Antarctic waters meet warmer sub-Antarctic waters — the island experiences relentless wind, cloud, and precipitation. Clear days are exceptionally rare; cloud cover typically obscures Big Ben's summit for weeks at a time.

Average temperatures hover around 0–1°C year-round, with summer (December–February) maxima rarely exceeding 4–5°C and winter minima dropping to around -5°C at sea level. At altitude, conditions are far more severe. Annual precipitation exceeds 1,300 mm at sea level, falling as rain, sleet, or snow on most days. The Roaring Forties and Furious Fifties drive constant westerly gales; wind speeds regularly exceed 100 km/h, and gusts of 180 km/h have been recorded.

When these powerful winds encounter the massive bulk of Big Ben, they create spectacular weather phenomena — dramatic lenticular cloud formations around the summit, violent downslope winds on the lee side, and unbelievably rapid changes in conditions. Scientists at the old Atlas Cove station reported experiencing four seasons in a single hour.

Plant life on Heard Island is sparse but scientifically significant. Only 11 species of vascular plants have been recorded: seven herbs and four grasses. The vegetation is confined to ice-free coastal areas, separated from each other by glaciers — creating isolated populations that evolve independently. The dominant species include Poa cookii (tussock grass), Azorella selago (cushion plant), Pringlea antiscorbutica (Kerguelen cabbage), and Acaena magellanica (dwarf shrub).

The bryophyte flora is richer, with 42 species of moss and approximately 50 lichen species identified. Kelp forests, principally Durvillea antarctica (bull kelp), fringe the coastline and provide crucial habitat for marine invertebrates. Sixteen other species of macro-algae have been recorded.

The most remarkable aspect of Heard Island's flora is what is absent: alien plants. While virtually every other sub-Antarctic island has been invaded by species brought deliberately or accidentally by humans, HIMI remains free of confirmed human-introduced plants. The grass Poa annua appeared in 1986/87, but its introduction by humans seems unlikely — it may have arrived naturally via wind or birds. This pristine status makes the islands invaluable for studying natural plant colonisation of newly deglaciated terrain.

The waters surrounding Heard Island are among the most biologically productive on Earth. The islands sit near the Antarctic Convergence, where cold Antarctic waters meet warmer sub-Antarctic waters, creating powerful upwellings that drive enormous plankton blooms. These blooms feed krill, which in turn support the vast populations of penguins, seals, seabirds, and whales.

The 65,000 km² marine reserve surrounding the islands protects a rich ecosystem of benthic (seafloor) communities, pelagic (open-water) species, and commercially valuable fish stocks. The Patagonian toothfish (Dissostichus eleginoides) — sold worldwide as "Chilean sea bass" — is the primary commercial species, with the Australian government allowing limited, carefully managed fishing in the surrounding waters under strict quotas.

Commercial fishing within the World Heritage property itself is prohibited. The marine ecosystem also supports populations of cetaceans, including humpback whales, southern right whales, orcas, and several dolphin species that pass through these waters on their Southern Ocean migrations.

1855–1882 — Sealing era: American and Australian sealers established camps at Oil Barrel Point, living in horrific conditions for months to harvest elephant seal blubber. The most notable were Erasmus Darwin Rogers's 1855 party from the Corinthian.

1929 — BANZARE: Douglas Mawson visited during his British, Australian and New Zealand Antarctic Research Expedition, conducting the first scientific surveys.

1947–1955 — ANARE Station: Australia established a permanent research station at Atlas Cove, with teams conducting continuous meteorological and scientific observations. The 1952 expedition tragically lost two members.

1965 — First summit of Mawson Peak: Major Warwick Deacock led the "Patanela Expedition" which placed five climbers on the summit of Big Ben on 25 January 1965.

1969–1971 — International science: American scientists reoccupied Atlas Cove in 1969, followed by French researchers in 1971 who expanded operations.

1983–2016 — Amateur radio DXpeditions: Several major ham radio expeditions, including the legendary 1997 VK0IR operation and the 2016 VK0EK Cordell Expedition which made over 75,000 radio contacts — among the most logistically complex amateur radio operations ever undertaken.

Heard Island's scientific value is immense. As the only sub-Antarctic island group virtually free of introduced species, it serves as an irreplaceable control site for understanding natural ecosystem processes. Researchers study population dynamics of seabirds and marine mammals, monitor volcanic activity, track glacial retreat as a climate indicator, and investigate the colonisation of newly ice-free land by plants and invertebrates.

The island also serves as a sentinel for the health of the broader Southern Ocean ecosystem. Changes in penguin and seal populations reflect changes in ocean productivity, krill availability, and fish stocks — information critical for managing the Southern Ocean's resources sustainably.

All research on HIMI requires permits from the Australian Antarctic Division, and strict biosecurity protocols are enforced to prevent any accidental introduction of alien species. Visitors must clean all equipment, clothing, and footwear before landing — maintaining the islands' extraordinary pristine status for future generations of scientists.

You almost certainly cannot visit Heard Island. The territory is among the most inaccessible places on Earth, and access is tightly controlled by the Australian government. Permits are required for any visit and are typically granted only for approved scientific research, management activities, or occasionally for well-organised private expeditions with legitimate purposes.

There is no airport, no harbour, and no regular transport. The nearest inhabited land is the French Kerguelen Islands (about 440 km northwest), and the nearest major port is Fremantle, Western Australia — about 4,100 km away. Reaching Heard Island typically involves a voyage of 10–14 days from Australia through some of the roughest seas on the planet.

Ships must anchor offshore, and passengers transfer to shore by small inflatable boats — possible only in rare calm conditions. Landing can be delayed for days while waiting for weather windows. Once ashore, there are no facilities, no shelter (beyond what you bring), and no rescue services. Self-sufficiency is absolute.

The Australian Antarctic Division estimates that fewer than a few hundred people have ever set foot on Heard Island in the entirety of human history. For most people, the best way to experience this extraordinary place is through the remarkable photography and scientific literature produced by those who have made the journey.

Heard Island has no cuisine in the traditional sense — there are no inhabitants, no restaurants, and no local food traditions. What exists instead is the fascinating culinary culture of Antarctic and sub-Antarctic expeditions, where Australian researchers and adventurers transform basic provisions into morale-boosting meals in extreme isolation.

Expedition Damper

Australian Bush Bread

The quintessential Australian expedition bread — simple flour and water baked in a camp oven, a tradition dating to the first Antarctic expeditions.

Ingredients: 250g self-raising flour, ½ tsp salt, 1 tbsp butter (optional), 150ml water or milk, extra flour for dusting, butter and golden syrup for serving.

Preparation: Mix flour and salt. Rub in butter if using. Make well in centre, add liquid gradually, mixing until shaggy dough forms. Knead briefly — just 30 seconds. Shape into round about 4cm thick. Score deep cross on top. Bake at 200°C for 25–30 minutes until golden and hollow-sounding. Break apart, serve warm with butter and golden syrup.

💡 Real expedition damper is made with whatever liquid is available — water, powdered milk, even beer.

Antarctic Lamb Roast

Celebration Dinner

When expeditions reach Heard Island, frozen lamb from home provides comfort in the harsh environment — a proper roast dinner celebrates successful arrival.

Ingredients: 500g lamb leg, 4 garlic cloves, 2 rosemary sprigs, 2 tbsp olive oil, salt and pepper, 4 potatoes, 2 carrots, 1 onion, 250ml stock, 1 tbsp flour, mint sauce.

Preparation: Make small incisions in lamb, insert garlic and rosemary. Rub with oil, season generously. Roast at 220°C for 20 minutes, then reduce to 180°C for 20 min per 500g. Rest 15 minutes covered. Make gravy from pan drippings with flour and stock. Carve and serve with roasted vegetables and mint sauce.

💡 On expedition, this meal marks milestones — arrival, midwinter, departures — making memories in harsh places.

ANZAC Biscuits

Expedition Sweet Treat

The iconic Australian biscuit — oats, coconut, and golden syrup create a sturdy cookie that survives rough transport and provides quick energy in the field.

Ingredients: 100g rolled oats, 85g plain flour, 90g sugar, 60g desiccated coconut, 100g butter, 2 tbsp golden syrup, 1 tbsp boiling water, ½ tsp bicarb soda.

Preparation: Combine dry ingredients. Melt butter with golden syrup. Mix bicarb with boiling water, add to butter (it will foam). Pour into dry mix. Roll tablespoonfuls into balls, flatten slightly. Bake at 160°C for 15–18 minutes until golden. Cool on trays — they crisp as they cool.

💡 Designed to survive months of shipping to soldiers — they'll handle expedition conditions perfectly.

Highest Australian mountain (disputed): Mawson Peak at 2,745 m is the highest mountain under undisputed Australian sovereignty. Mt Kosciuszko on the mainland is only 2,228 m.

Only active Australian volcanoes: Both Heard Island and McDonald Island have active volcanoes — the only ones on Australian territory.

Zero alien species: HIMI is the only sub-Antarctic island group with no confirmed introduced species — no rats, cats, rabbits, mice, or invasive plants.

McDonald Island doubled in size: After erupting in 1992 following 75,000 years of dormancy, volcanic activity doubled McDonald Island from about 1 km² to 2.5 km².

Fewer than a few hundred visitors ever: More people have been to space than have set foot on Heard Island.

DXpedition dream: For amateur radio operators, Heard Island (VK0H) is one of the rarest and most desired contacts — the 2016 VK0EK expedition made over 75,000 radio contacts.

Four seasons in an hour: The weather changes so rapidly that scientists at Atlas Cove reported experiencing sun, rain, sleet, and snow all within 60 minutes.

Glacial retreat visible from space: Satellite imagery clearly shows how dramatically the glaciers have retreated since the 1940s, creating new lagoons and ice-free land.

Books: "Heard Island" by P. Law & T. Burstall (1953) — the definitive early account from the ANARE expeditions. "Big Dead Place" by Nicholas Johnson — while focused on Antarctica, captures the mentality of remote Southern Ocean expeditions.

Scientific resources: The Australian Antarctic Division website (aad.gov.au) maintains comprehensive information on HIMI management, research, and natural values. The UNESCO World Heritage Centre datasheet provides detailed conservation assessments.

Radio: The VK0EK Cordell Expedition website documents one of the most ambitious amateur radio DXpeditions ever, with stunning photography and video from Heard Island.

News sources: Australian Antarctic Division reports, CCAMLR (Commission for the Conservation of Antarctic Marine Living Resources) publications, and academic journals including Polar Biology and Antarctic Science.

Heard Island exists at the very edge of what is accessible to humans. In a world where almost every corner has been explored, developed, and altered, this volcanic wilderness in the Southern Ocean remains genuinely wild — a place where the Earth's internal fires meet glacial ice, where millions of animals live free of any human influence, and where the weather itself seems to guard against intrusion.

You will almost certainly never visit. But knowing that such places exist — pristine, untouched, fierce — is itself a kind of treasure. Heard Island reminds us that the planet still has secrets, still has wildness, and that some of the most extraordinary places on Earth are those that humans have barely touched.

— Radim Kaufmann, 2026