Ascension Island is one of Earth's most remote and inaccessible destinations—a volcanic speck in the South Atlantic Ocean, 1,600 km from Africa and 2,250 km from Brazil. This 88 km² British Overseas Territory exists in magnificent isolation, accessible only by military flights requiring advance government permission.
The island's unique appeal lies in its otherworldly volcanic landscapes, pioneering ecological history, and extraordinary wildlife. Green Mountain, transformed from barren lava into a cloud forest through Victorian-era terraforming, represents one of humanity's earliest successful environmental interventions. Green sea turtles nest on pristine beaches, frigate birds soar above the world's largest colony, and endemic species found nowhere else cling to existence on this remote outpost.
⚠️ Important Travel Advisory
Access Restrictions: Ascension Island requires advance permission from the Ascension Island Government. This is NOT a casual tourist destination.
Current Conditions (2025):
- All visitors must have confirmed accommodation before arrival
- Return flights must be pre-booked
- No tourist visas—only special permission granted
- Medical evacuation extremely limited
🔴 Who Can Visit: Family of residents, researchers, journalists with authorization, rare individual tourists with compelling reasons.
Mars on Earth
Over 40 volcanic cones dot Ascension's otherworldly landscape — black lava flows meet red cinder fields
Ascension emerged from the Mid-Atlantic Ridge less than one million years ago—making it geologically young. Over 40 volcanic cones dot the landscape, creating an otherworldly terrain that genuinely resembles Mars. The highest point is Green Mountain at 859 meters—once completely barren, now transformed into a unique cloud forest ecosystem through Victorian-era terraforming that began in the 1840s.
Much of the island remains raw volcanic terrain: black and red cinder fields, lava flows, and scattered volcanic bombs. The contrast between the lush green summit and the desert-like lowlands creates one of Earth's most dramatic ecological transitions within such a small area.
Georgetown — World's Smallest Capital
White colonial buildings with red roofs nestle along the volcanic coastline
Discovered in 1503 by Portuguese navigator Afonso de Albuquerque on Ascension Day, the island remained uninhabited for over three centuries—too barren and waterless for permanent settlement. The island's strategic importance emerged in 1815 when the British Royal Navy garrisoned it to guard against any rescue attempt of Napoleon Bonaparte during his exile on nearby Saint Helena.
In 1899, Ascension became a crucial telegraph relay station on the cable connecting Britain to South Africa. The United States built Wideawake Airfield during World War II, which became critical during the 1982 Falklands War—serving as the staging base for the longest bombing raids in history at that time (12,700 km round trip). Today, the island hosts RAF, US Space Force, and ESA tracking facilities.
Ancient Navigator Returns
Green sea turtles swim 2,000+ kilometers from Brazil to nest on Ascension's beaches
Green Mountain National Park: A cloud forest ecosystem created through 1840s terraforming—bamboo groves, ginger plants, and mist-shrouded paths where you can walk from volcanic desert to tropical forest in hours.
Long Beach: The primary nesting beach for green sea turtles (January-May). Witnessing 200+ kg turtles haul themselves ashore to lay eggs is one of Earth's great wildlife spectacles.
Boatswain Bird Island: A small offshore islet hosting the world's largest colony of Ascension frigatebirds—an endemic species found nowhere else on Earth.
Letterbox Walks: A unique tradition of hikes across volcanic terrain to hidden message boxes where visitors leave notes.
Devil's Riding School: A dramatic volcanic crater with steep cinder walls that creates an otherworldly amphitheater.
Endemic Frigatebirds
The Ascension frigatebird is found nowhere else on Earth — males display bright red throat pouches
This remote South Atlantic island's cuisine is simple but flavorful, featuring local fish and the famous land crabs.
Steamed Land Crabs
Island Delicacy
Fresh land crabs steamed with garlic and local herbs.
Ingredients: 4 land crabs, cleaned, 4 cloves garlic, minced, 30ml butter, 1 lemon, Fresh thyme, Salt, pepper, Bay leaves.
Preparation: Purg crabs in saltwater for 24 hours. Then place crabs in steamer with bay leaves. Steam 15-20 min until red. Melt butter with garlic and thyme. Then serve crabs with garlic butter. To finish, squeeze lemon over.
💡 Crabs must be purged to clean their systems before cooking.
Pilau
Spiced Rice
One-pot spiced rice with fish or chicken—island comfort food.
Ingredients: 240ml rice, 200g fish or chicken, 1 onion, sliced, 1 tomato, diced, 480ml stock, Turmeric, cumin, Peas, carrots.
Preparation: Brown protein, set aside. Sauté onion until golden. Add rice, toast 2 min. Then add spices, vegetables, stock. Return protein, cover. Finally, simmer 20 min until rice done.
💡 Don't lift the lid—let steam do the work.
Grilled Tuna Steaks
Fresh Catch
Simply grilled fresh tuna with lemon and herbs.
Ingredients: 2 tuna steaks, 30ml olive oil, 2 cloves garlic, 1 lemon, Fresh rosemary, Salt, pepper.
Preparation: Marinate tuna in oil, garlic, herbs 30 min. After that, heat grill or pan very hot. Season steaks with salt and pepper. Then grill 2-3 min per side for medium-rare. Rest 2 min. Serve with lemon.
💡 Fresh tuna should be pink in center—don't overcook!
Ascension Island has no vineyards, no breweries, no distilleries — and only about 800 residents, almost all of whom are military personnel, contractors, or BBC relay station staff. This is one of the most isolated inhabited places on Earth: a volcanic rock in the middle of the South Atlantic, 1,000 miles from the nearest continent. Everything is imported by sea or the occasional RAF flight.
The Two Boats Club and the Saints Club (named after the St Helenian workers who are the island's primary civilian population) are Ascension's only social drinking venues. Both are modest military-style clubs serving imported British beers (Carling, Stella Artois), basic spirits, and occasional wine. The Two Boats Club, at the island's only settlement, hosts quiz nights, darts, and the kind of intimate community socialising that only happens when 800 people share a volcano.
Two Boats Club · Beer taps, dartboard, RAF ensign, and Green Mountain through the window — drinking stripped of all pretension on a volcano in the middle of nowhere.
St Helenian rum culture is the closest thing to a local drinking tradition. The Saints — workers from nearby St Helena, 800 miles to the southeast — bring their own traditions: rum punch, strong tea, and the resilient good humour of a community that has been staffing Britain's remote outposts for generations.
✍️ Author's Note
Radim Kaufmann
Ascension Island is the kind of place where the concept of "drinking culture" reduces to its purest form: a few people, a remote location, and a bottle. The Two Boats Club on a Friday night — darts, warm beer, 800 miles of ocean in every direction — is drinking stripped of all pretension. There's something almost noble about it. No wine list. No cocktail menu. Just human beings sharing a drink on a volcano in the middle of nowhere. Sometimes that's all you need.
RAF South Atlantic Air Bridge is the ONLY option:
- Departure: RAF Brize Norton, UK
- Route: Via Cape Verde to Ascension
- Frequency: Approximately twice monthly
- Cost: £1,200-1,500 one way
- Requirement: Government permission MUST be obtained first
There are no commercial flights, no cruise ships, and no ferries. This is one of the most difficult places on Earth to visit legally.
Wideawake Airfield
The only gateway to Ascension — this strategic military base supported every crewed US space mission
Obsidian Hotel: The only proper hotel on the island, located in Georgetown. Rates approximately £100-150/night.
Guesthouses: Limited availability—must be booked through the Ascension Island Government. £60-80/night.
Currency: Saint Helena Pound (SHP), pegged 1:1 to GBP. British pounds accepted everywhere. Bring cash—card use is unreliable.
Important: Confirmed accommodation is REQUIRED before entry permission will be granted.
Devil's Riding School
A dramatic volcanic crater with steep cinder walls — one of the island's most spectacular natural features
- Elliott's Pass letterbox walk: Dramatic volcanic scenery along one of the island's most challenging hiking routes
- Pan Am Beach: Excellent snorkeling in crystal-clear waters
- The Dew Pond: Victorian water capture engineering on Green Mountain
- Cricket Valley: An actual cricket pitch built on volcanic ash
- Wideawake Fairs: Seasonal sooty tern breeding assemblies
Letterbox Walk at Sunset
The Elliott's Pass trail leads to traditional letterboxes where visitors leave messages
🌳 First Terraforming: Green Mountain's transformation (1840s) predates the word "terraforming" by nearly a century
🐢 Ancient Navigation: Green sea turtles swim 2,000+ km from Brazil to nest here—how they find this tiny speck remains a mystery
📡 Space Infrastructure: Ascension supported every crewed US space mission from Mercury to the Space Shuttle
✈️ Longest Bombing Raid: The 1982 Vulcan raids from Ascension to the Falklands covered 12,700 km round trip
🦅 Endemic Species: The Ascension frigatebird is found nowhere else on Earth
Green Mountain Cloud Forest
Victorian-era terraforming transformed barren volcanic rock into this misty tropical paradise
Access remains carefully managed. Green sea turtle protection programs continue successfully with increasing nesting numbers. The Ascension frigatebird population is stabilizing following successful cat eradication. A marine protected area has been established around the island. Ascension continues to serve as a critical atmospheric monitoring station for climate research.
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