🍽️ Cuisine
Rising from the deep Pacific north of Guam, the Commonwealth of the Northern Mariana Islands carries the same Chamorro heritage as its southern neighbor, shaped by four centuries of Spanish colonization, followed by German, Japanese, and American influence. Saipan, Tinian, and Rota each maintain distinct identities, but fiesta food unites them all—kelaguen (citrus-marinated meat), red rice stained with achote seeds, and sweet coconut desserts wrapped in banana leaves appear at every celebration. The ocean remains the great provider: fishermen bring in skipjack tuna, parrotfish, and spiny lobster to be grilled over coconut-husk coals. These recipes honor the Chamorro spirit of inafa'maolek—working together and sharing abundance.
Kelaguen Mannok
Lemon-Grilled Chicken Salad
Kelaguen is the iconic Chamorro dish—grilled meat finely chopped and "cooked" further in sour citrus, mixed with coconut, onions, and fiery donne' (local bird's eye chilies). The technique likely predates Spanish arrival, though lemon replaced native citrus centuries ago. Every family guards their kelaguen recipe; debates rage over the proper ratio of lemon to coconut. This chicken version is fiesta essential, scooped up with hot titiyas flatbread.
Ingredients: 2 boneless chicken thighs (about 300g), Juice of 4 lemons (about 120ml), 60g freshly grated coconut (unsweetened), 1/2 medium onion (very finely minced), 3 green onions (thinly sliced), 2 bird's eye chilies or 1 serrano (minced, adjust to taste), 1/2 teaspoon salt, Freshly ground black pepper, Titiyas (Chamorro flatbread) or tortillas for serving.
Preparation: Grill chicken thighs over high heat, charring the exterior while keeping the inside just cooked through—about 4 minutes per side. The char is essential; don't cook over gentle heat. Let rest 5 minutes, then chop very finely with a sharp knife. The pieces should be about the size of rice grains—this isn't a rough chop. Transfer warm chicken to a bowl and immediately pour lemon juice over, tossing to coat every piece. The residual heat and acid will continue "cooking" the meat. Add grated coconut, minced onion, green onions, chilies, salt, and pepper. Mix thoroughly with your hands—yes, hands are traditional. Taste and adjust salt, lemon, and heat. Let sit at least 15 minutes for flavors to meld; some prefer it after an hour. Serve at room temperature with warm titiyas to scoop.
💡 The chicken must be warm when the lemon hits it—cold chicken won't absorb the citrus properly. Fresh coconut makes a significant difference over dried.
Red Rice
Achote-Stained Celebration Rice
No Chamorro fiesta is complete without platters of red rice, its distinctive rust color coming from achote (annatto) seeds. The Spanish introduced this technique from Mexico centuries ago, and it has become as essential to the islands as the rice itself. The achote imparts a subtle earthy flavor beyond its dramatic color—a proper red rice should be aromatic, slightly nutty, and never greasy. Every family argues whether bacon fat or vegetable oil is correct.
Ingredients: 200g long-grain rice, 2 tablespoons achote (annatto) seeds, 60ml vegetable oil (or bacon fat for tradition), 1 small onion (finely diced), 2 cloves garlic (minced), 400ml chicken stock or water, 1/2 teaspoon salt.
Preparation: Rinse rice in several changes of cold water until the water runs mostly clear. Drain and set aside. Heat oil in a small pan over medium heat. Add achote seeds and let them infuse for 5 minutes—the oil will turn deep red-orange. Do not let the seeds burn. Strain the achote oil into a medium pot with a tight-fitting lid, discarding the seeds. Heat the achote oil over medium heat. Sauté onion until softened and translucent, about 3 minutes. Add garlic and cook 30 seconds until fragrant. Add the drained rice and stir to coat each grain with the red oil, toasting for 2 minutes. The rice will turn uniformly colored. Add stock and salt. Bring to a boil, then immediately reduce heat to lowest setting. Cover tightly and cook for 18 minutes without lifting the lid. Remove from heat and let stand, still covered, for 5 minutes. Fluff with a fork—the rice should be separate, tender, and a beautiful terra-cotta red throughout.
💡 The achote oil can be made ahead and stored in the refrigerator. Some cooks add a bay leaf or a diced tomato; others insist on purity. Find your own tradition.
Apigigi
Sweet Coconut Rice Cake in Banana Leaves
These tender coconut parcels are the beloved sweet of Chamorro childhood—sticky rice flour mixed with coconut milk and sugar, wrapped in banana leaves and grilled until the edges caramelize and the wrapper chars slightly. The banana leaf imparts a distinctive grassy sweetness that no other cooking method replicates. Apigigi appears at fiestas, funerals, and ordinary Sunday afternoons alike. This recipe serves two (makes 6 pieces).
Ingredients: 150g glutinous rice flour (mochiko), 200ml coconut milk, 80g sugar, 50g freshly grated coconut, Pinch of salt, 6 pieces banana leaf (about 20x25cm each, softened over flame), Kitchen twine or toothpicks.
Preparation: Whisk coconut milk and sugar in a saucepan over medium heat until sugar dissolves completely. Remove from heat and let cool to room temperature. Put rice flour and salt in a bowl. Pour in the sweetened coconut milk gradually, stirring to form a smooth, thick batter with no lumps—it should be like thick pancake batter. Fold in grated coconut. Lay out the softened banana leaf pieces. Spoon about 3 tablespoons of batter onto the center of each leaf. Fold the long sides of the leaf over the batter, then fold the short ends underneath to create a flat rectangular parcel. Secure with kitchen twine or toothpicks if needed. Grill over medium coals or on a grill pan over medium-high heat for about 6 minutes per side, until the banana leaf is charred in spots and the filling is set. You can also steam the parcels for 20 minutes if grilling isn't practical. Let cool slightly—the apigigi firms up as it rests. Unwrap and eat warm, or at room temperature. The slight char from the banana leaf is part of the magic.
💡 Passing banana leaves over an open flame makes them pliable; rigid leaves will crack when folding. The grilled version has better flavor than steamed, so use a grill pan if you don't have outdoor coals.
