Faroe Islands

Eighteen windswept islands rise from the North Atlantic halfway between Norway and Iceland—a Norse outpost where grass-roofed villages cling to cliffs, sheep outnumber people, and dramatic landscapes shift between mist and sudden sunlight. The Faroe Islands offer wild Atlantic beauty that rivals Iceland with a fraction of the crowds.

Vikings settled the Faroes around 800 CE, and Norse heritage remains central to Faroese identity. Part of Denmark since 1380, the islands gained home rule in 1948, managing all affairs except defense and foreign policy. The Faroese language—closest to Old Norse—survives as a living link to Viking times.

Fishing dominates the economy (95% of exports), supplemented by growing tourism. Subsea tunnels now connect many islands, though ferries and helicopters remain essential. The landscape—vertical cliffs, cascading waterfalls, impossibly green grass—draws photographers and hikers seeking North Atlantic drama.

The Faroe Islands archipelago comprises 18 islands, 17 of which are inhabited. The total land area of 1,399 km² makes them smaller than Greater London, yet the coastline stretches over 1,100 kilometers of fjords, sea cliffs, and natural harbors.

The landscape is dominated by steep mountains (highest: Slættaratindur at 882m), deep valleys, and coastal cliffs reaching over 700 meters. No point in the Faroes is more than 5 kilometers from the sea. The terrain is treeless—strong Atlantic winds prevent forest growth—covered instead by grass, heather, and moss in countless shades of green.

Streymoy is the largest island, home to the capital Tórshavn. Vágar hosts the only airport and the famous Múlafossur waterfall. Eysturoy offers the best hiking, while tiny Mykines at the western edge draws birdwatchers seeking puffins.

Irish monks may have reached the Faroes in the 6th century, but permanent Norse settlement began around 800 CE. The Vikings who arrived were primarily from western Norway, establishing the society and language that persist today.

The Løgting (parliament), founded around 900 CE, is one of the world's oldest legislative assemblies—predating Iceland's Althing by decades. It originally met at Tinganes in Tórshavn, where the current government buildings still stand on the same historic peninsula.

The islands came under Norwegian rule in 1035, then passed to Denmark when the two kingdoms united in 1380. Danish became the official language, though Faroese survived as the spoken tongue. Home rule arrived in 1948, giving the Faroes control over most domestic affairs while remaining part of the Danish realm.

Notably, the Faroe Islands are not part of the European Union, having declined to join when Denmark entered in 1973. This independence allows the islands to maintain their fishing policies—crucial for an economy where fish represents 95% of exports.

Tórshavn (Thor's Harbor) holds the distinction of being one of the world's smallest capitals, with around 22,000 residents in the greater area. Named after the Norse god of thunder, the town has served as the Faroes' main settlement since Viking times.

The historic heart is Tinganes, a narrow peninsula of turf-roofed red buildings where the Løgting has met since the 9th century. Wandering the cobblestone lanes of the old town reveals centuries of Faroese life—the buildings are protected monuments, some dating to the 16th century.

Modern Tórshavn offers excellent dining, including KOKS—the Faroes' Michelin-starred restaurant showcasing New Nordic cuisine with traditional fermented ingredients. The Nordic House cultural center hosts concerts and exhibitions, while the harbor buzzes with fishing boats and ferries connecting to outer islands.

The Múlafossur waterfall at Gásadalur village has become the iconic image of the Faroe Islands—a 30-meter cascade plunging directly into the Atlantic Ocean from towering sea cliffs. The scene, with the tiny village perched above, encapsulates Faroese drama in a single frame.

Until 2004, Gásadalur was the most isolated village in the Faroes, accessible only by helicopter or a strenuous mountain hike. A tunnel now connects it to the road network, making this once-remote spectacle one of the islands' most visited sites. The waterfall is visible from a short walk at the village edge—no hiking required.

Best photographed in morning light or during dramatic weather when mist swirls around the cliffs. Arrive early in summer to avoid crowds at this deservedly famous location.

Mykines, the westernmost inhabited island, is the Faroes' premier wildlife destination. Thousands of Atlantic puffins nest on the grassy slopes from May through August, remarkably unafraid of careful visitors. The island also hosts gannets, guillemots, and fulmars in spectacular numbers.

The dramatic hike to Mykineshólmur lighthouse crosses a narrow footbridge spanning a deep gorge before climbing to the island's western tip. Puffins nest in burrows along the entire route, often standing just meters from the path. The 3-hour round trip is moderate but requires good weather—the bridge closes in high winds.

Access requires advance planning: ferry bookings (from Sørvágur) fill quickly in summer, and the crossing can be cancelled in rough seas. Book as early as possible and have backup days. An access fee (included in ferry ticket) supports conservation efforts.

Saksun occupies a natural amphitheater at the head of a tidal lagoon—perhaps the most quintessentially Faroese scene in the islands. A handful of turf-roofed farmhouses cluster around a white church, backed by sheer mountain walls draped with waterfalls.

The village church dates to 1858, though Christianity arrived much earlier. Below the village, a black sand beach emerges at low tide, allowing walks into the lagoon. At high tide, the sea fills the valley completely—timing your visit to the tides rewards with different but equally stunning views.

Saksun was once a busy harbor until a storm sealed the entrance with sand in the 19th century. Today's population of around 10 maintains the agricultural traditions that have sustained Faroese communities for centuries.

The Vestmanna Bird Cliffs boat tour offers one of the Faroes' most dramatic experiences—sailing beneath towering sea cliffs reaching 600+ meters, navigating through sea caves and past natural arches while thousands of seabirds wheel overhead.

Tours depart from Vestmanna village on Streymoy, typically lasting 2 hours. The boats venture into narrow grottos where the cliff walls almost touch above, then emerge to views of vertical basalt faces hosting colonies of guillemots, razorbills, and kittiwakes. Puffins are less common here than Mykines but present.

The tours run year-round but are most spectacular during breeding season (May-August). Weather can cause cancellations—book with flexibility. Waterproof clothing essential; sea spray is guaranteed.

Sørvágsvatn (also called Leitisvatn), the Faroes' largest lake, creates one of the most famous optical illusions in travel photography. From the Trælanípa cliff viewpoint, the lake appears to hover impossibly above the ocean—though it actually sits just 30 meters above sea level.

The hike to Trælanípa covers approximately 7km round trip with moderate elevation gain. A mandatory access fee (around 200 DKK) applies, payable online or at the trailhead. The route follows the lakeshore before climbing to the iconic viewpoint overlooking both lake and the dramatic Bøsdalafossur waterfall, which carries the lake's overflow down 30 meters to the sea.

This is the Faroes' most popular hike—expect crowds on summer days. Early morning starts reward with better light and fewer people. The trail continues to Gásadalur for those wanting a longer adventure.

Faroese cuisine is defined by preservation—a necessity born of long winters and geographic isolation. Ræst (fermented/dried meat) and skerpikjøt (wind-dried mutton) represent traditions stretching back to Viking times, when food had to last months without refrigeration.

Lamb dominates the menu—free-range sheep grazing on herb-rich grass produce exceptionally flavored meat. Fresh fish (cod, salmon, halibut) appears in every form, from traditional dried preparations to modern fine dining. Pilot whale remains part of the traditional diet despite international controversy.

KOKS restaurant has put Faroese cuisine on the world map, earning Michelin stars for its innovative take on traditional ingredients. The restaurant relocated to a remote farmhouse, where guests experience a full immersion in Faroese food culture. Reservations required months in advance.

Ræstkjøt

Wind-dried fermented lamb, the iconic food of the Faroe Islands. Hung for months in hjallur (drying houses), the meat develops an intense, complex flavor somewhere between prosciutto and aged cheese. Thinly sliced, it's served as an appetizer or with traditional accompaniments.

Ingredients: 200g ræstkjøt (or substitute aged bresaola), Fresh rye bread, Butter, Boiled potatoes (optional), Pickled vegetables.

Preparation: If using authentic ræstkjøt, remove any surface mold by scraping with a knife—this is normal and expected. Slice the meat as thinly as possible against the grain. The fermented meat should be translucent. Arrange slices on a wooden board or plate. Serve with dense rye bread, butter, and boiled potatoes. Traditional accompaniment includes pickled vegetables to cut through the richness.

💡 Authentic ræstkjøt is nearly impossible to find outside the Faroes. Aged bresaola or Spanish cecina offer a similar (though milder) experience.

Skerpikjøt

Even more intensely fermented than ræstkjøt, skerpikjøt hangs for up to a year until the meat is hard and the flavor is almost cheese-like. It's traditionally eaten in thin slivers at Christmas and special occasions. This preparation shows how to serve it properly.

Ingredients: 150g skerpikjøt (or very aged air-dried lamb), Dark Faroese rye bread, Salted butter, Beer or aquavit for pairing.

Preparation: Scrape any surface mold from the meat with a clean knife. Use a very sharp knife, shave the thinnest possible slices from the meat. It should be almost translucent. Slice the dense rye bread and spread generously with salted butter. Place a few slivers of skerpikjøt on each bread slice. Serve immediately—the meat is best eaten at room temperature. Pair with cold beer or chilled aquavit.

💡 The intense flavor of skerpikjøt is meant to be experienced in small quantities. First-timers should start with just a sliver—the fermented taste is powerful.

Garnatálg

A traditional Faroese lamb suet pudding, served during the winter months when preserved foods dominate the table. Sweet, dense, and filling, garnatálg combines rendered lamb fat with raisins, spices, and flour into a satisfying dessert that sustained islanders through long dark winters.

Ingredients: 100g lamb suet (or beef suet), 100g rye flour, 50g sugar, 50g raisins, 200ml milk, 2ml cinnamon, 1ml cardamom, Pinch of salt.

Preparation: Finely chop or grate the cold suet until it resembles coarse breadcrumbs. Mix the suet with rye flour, sugar, spices, and salt in a bowl. Warm the milk slightly and add to the dry ingredients, stirring to form a thick batter. Fold in the raisins. Pour into a greased pudding mold or heatproof bowl. Cover tightly with foil. Steam for 2 hours, checking water level occasionally. Turn out and serve warm with cream or vanilla sauce.

💡 Like British Christmas pudding, garnatálg can be made ahead and reheated by steaming. It keeps well for several weeks.

Vágar Airport (FAE) is the only airport, located on Vágar island with subsea tunnel connections to the rest of the archipelago. Atlantic Airways (Faroese national carrier) and SAS operate flights from:

• Copenhagen — Most frequent connections (2 hours)
• Reykjavik — Gateway from Iceland (1.5 hours)
• Edinburgh — Seasonal service
• Bergen — Norwegian connection

Smyril Line ferry operates seasonally between Denmark (Hirtshals) and Iceland (Seyðisfjörður) with a stop in Tórshavn. The journey from Denmark takes approximately 36 hours—a scenic option for those with time.

Visas: The Faroe Islands are NOT part of the Schengen Area despite Danish sovereignty. EU/EEA citizens need no visa. US, UK, Canadian, and Australian citizens can visit visa-free for up to 90 days.

Currency: Danish Krone (DKK) and Faroese Króna (locally issued notes, equal value). Cards accepted almost everywhere.

Language: Faroese is the primary language, with Danish as the second. English is widely understood, especially among younger generations.

Sustainability Fee: Since 2024, visitors 16+ must pay a mandatory €25 sustainability fee. Some hiking trails have additional access fees.

Summer (June-August) — Best hiking weather, long daylight hours (nearly 24 hours around solstice), puffins present on Mykines. Peak season with highest prices and need for advance bookings. Temperatures 11-15°C but can feel warmer in sun.

Shoulder Season (May, September) — Fewer crowds, lower prices, still reasonable weather. May offers spring lambs; September brings autumn colors. Puffins depart mid-August.

Winter (November-March) — Short, dark days but dramatic storms, potential northern lights, and authentic local atmosphere. Many attractions still accessible. Temperatures rarely below freezing (3-7°C) due to Gulf Stream influence.

Weather reality: "Four seasons in one day" is Faroese cliché for good reason. Rain, wind, fog, and sunshine can all arrive within hours. Pack layers and waterproofs regardless of season. Flexible itineraries essential.

Key Trends: Tourism growing steadily as "Iceland alternative" appeal increases. New sustainability legislation (2024) includes mandatory €25 visitor fee and access fees for popular hiking trails. Hotel capacity doubled in 2020. KOKS restaurant puts Faroese cuisine on the global map. Cruise tourism increasing—source of local concern about sustainability. 89% of hotel stays concentrated in Tórshavn region.

The Faroe Islands offer something increasingly rare: landscapes that stop you mid-step, demanding attention before any photograph can be taken. The interplay of light and weather creates scenes that shift from dramatic to ethereal within minutes—vertical cliffs emerging from fog, waterfalls lit by sudden sun, rainbows arching over impossibly green valleys.

This is not a destination for those seeking predictability. Weather will change plans, ferries will be cancelled, and flexibility is essential. But for those who embrace uncertainty, the Faroes deliver rewards proportional to their remoteness: puffins at arm's length, Viking history still visible in the landscape, and a living Norse culture that connects modern islanders to their medieval ancestors.

As tourism grows—the islands now receive more visitors annually than residents—the Faroese are implementing sustainability measures to protect what makes them special. The €25 visitor fee, trail access restrictions, and local debates about cruise ships reflect a community working to balance economic opportunity with environmental and cultural preservation.

For those who make the journey, the Faroes deliver what their landscapes promise: raw, unspoiled beauty at the edge of the known world. The mist will lift, the waterfall will cascade into the sea, and you'll understand why Vikings chose these impossible cliffs to call home a thousand years ago.