Bonaire

Bonaire is a diver's paradise in the southern Caribbean—a small Dutch island just off the Venezuelan coast where the entire coastline is a protected marine park. Unlike its flashier ABC-island siblings Aruba and Curaçao, Bonaire chose conservation over mass tourism, creating one of the world's best shore-diving destinations.

Above water, the island's arid landscape of cacti and flamingo-filled salt pans feels more like Arizona than the Caribbean. The laid-back atmosphere, constant trade winds, and world-class windsurfing at Lac Bay attract a devoted following of underwater enthusiasts and wind sports addicts.

Bonaire's name likely derives from the Caquetío indigenous word bonay, meaning "low country." Spanish explorers altered it, and the name stuck. Since 2010, Bonaire has been a special municipality of the Netherlands (not part of the EU), giving it a unique political status.

The island's identity is shaped by its Papiamentu-speaking culture—a Creole language blending Portuguese, Spanish, Dutch, and African elements. Bonairean pride centers on marine conservation; the island's motto could well be "dive, protect, repeat."

Bonaire is a boomerang-shaped island of 288 km² in the Leeward Antilles, 80km north of Venezuela. The flat, arid landscape is dotted with columnar cacti, divi-divi trees, and salt pans—a stark contrast to the lush marine world just offshore. Washington Slagbaai National Park covers the hilly northern third.

The tiny uninhabited island of Klein Bonaire sits 750 meters offshore, surrounded by pristine reefs and serving as a sea turtle nesting site. The southern coast features the famous pink-tinged salt flats where solar evaporation ponds produce sea salt—and thousands of flamingos feed in the briny shallows.

The Caquetío people (an Arawak subgroup) inhabited Bonaire for centuries before Spanish arrival in 1499. Spain declared the island isla inútil (useless island) and used it primarily for livestock and salt harvesting. The Dutch West India Company took control in 1636.

The colonial era brought enslaved Africans to work the salt pans—the tiny stone huts where they slept still stand as haunting memorials along the southern coast. After abolition in 1863, Bonaire remained a quiet backwater until scuba diving transformed it in the 1960s–70s.

In 2010, when the Netherlands Antilles dissolved, Bonaire became a special municipality of the Netherlands, giving residents Dutch citizenship and the US dollar as official currency—an unusual arrangement that reflects the island's pragmatic character.

Bonaire's 21,000 residents are a mix of Afro-Caribbean, Dutch, Latin American, and international dive professionals. Papiamentu is the heart language, though Dutch is official and English and Spanish are widely spoken. The culture blends Caribbean warmth with Dutch efficiency.

Island life revolves around the sea. Diving and snorkeling are practically civic duties, and environmental awareness runs deep—Bonaire was the first Caribbean island to ban reef-damaging sunscreen. Annual events include Regatta Week (October) and Dia di Rincon, celebrating the island's oldest village.

Kralendijk is one of the Caribbean's most low-key capitals—a colorful waterfront town of pastel Dutch colonial buildings, a handful of restaurants, and dive shops outnumbering banks. The name means "coral dike" in Dutch. Fort Oranje, built in 1639, still watches over the harbor.

The waterfront promenade offers views across to Klein Bonaire, and the town market comes alive on weekend mornings. There's no cruise ship chaos here—Bonaire deliberately limits large vessel visits to protect its marine environment and small-town character.

Bonairen cuisine reflects the region's agricultural heritage and mountain traditions, emphasizing corn, dairy, herbs, and the legendary spice paste. The Bonairen diet, low in fat and rich in herbs and vegetables, was once credited with exceptional longevity in the population.

Kabritu Stobá

Goat Stew

Tender goat stewed with local spices—the island's signature dish. This recipe serves two.

Ingredients: 500g goat meat, cubed, 2 onions, 2 tomatoes, 1 bell pepper, Cumin, nutmeg, 15ml vinegar, Hot pepper.

Preparation: Marinate goat in vinegar, spices. After that, brown meat well. Add vegetables, spices. Then add water, simmer 2 hours. Until meat falls off bone. Serve with funchi.

💡 Low and slow is key—goat needs long cooking to tenderize.

Funchi

Cornmeal Polenta

Smooth cornmeal porridge—the essential Bonairean starch. This recipe serves two.

Ingredients: 240ml cornmeal, 480ml water, 15ml butter, Salt.

Preparation: Boil salted water. Slowly whisk in cornmeal. Stire constantly over low heat. Then cook until very thick. Stir in butter. Last, serve alongside stews.

💡 Traditional funchi should hold its shape when molded.

Fried Snapper

Catch of the Day

Whole fried snapper with Creole sauce—fresh from local waters. This recipe serves two.

Ingredients: 1 whole snapper, cleaned, Lime juice, Salt, pepper, Oil for frying, For sauce: tomato, onion, pepper, garlic.

Preparation: Score fish, rub with lime and salt. After that, let marinate 30 min. Deep-fry until crispy. Then make Creole sauce with vegetables. Pour sauce over fish. Last, serve with funchi.

💡 Hot oil ensures crispy skin—test with wooden spoon.

Signature Dishes: () – thick corn porridge served with fresh cheese, walnut sauce, or meat, the cornerstone of Bonairen diet. – the iconic spicy paste made from hot red peppers, garlic, herbs, and salt, accompanying virtually every meal. – refreshing salad of cooked green beans dressed with walnut sauce. – layered cheese bread resembling lasagna. – cheese-filled dumplings similar to Georgian khachapuri.

Beverages: – potent grape vodka (40-65% alcohol). Bonairen wines – , , varieties from vineyards cultivated for 3,000 years. – fermented milk drink. Practically every Bonairen farm makes its own wine and .

Best Time: May-June or September-October for ideal weather and fewer crowds. July-August is peak beach season but can be hot and humid. Independence Day (September 30) offers unique cultural celebrations.

By Air: Flamingo International Airport (BON) receives direct flights from Amsterdam (KLM), Miami (American Airlines), and connections through Curaçao and Aruba. The flight from Amsterdam is approximately 9 hours.

By Sea: A fast ferry connects Bonaire to Curaçao (approximately 2.5 hours). No cruise ship terminal exists—large ships anchor offshore. Visa: Same requirements as the Netherlands. US, EU, UK, and many other nationals can enter visa-free for up to 90 days. A return ticket is required.

Visa: Same as Netherlands entry requirements. Currency: US Dollar (since 2011). ATMs and credit cards widely accepted in Kralendijk; cash useful at small businesses. Driving: Right-hand traffic. Rental vehicles essential for exploring. Speed limits are strictly enforced on this small island.

Diving: Bonaire National Marine Park tag required ($25/year for divers, $10/year for snorkelers). Shore diving from 63 marked sites around the island—no boat needed. Health: Tap water is desalinated and safe. Sun protection critical—the island sits at 12°N with intense UV. No dangerous wildlife on land.

Bonaire is moderately priced by Caribbean standards—cheaper than Aruba or the US Virgin Islands, but not a budget destination. Diving costs are reasonable thanks to unlimited shore diving with just a Marine Park tag. Self-catering apartments can reduce food costs significantly.

Dive resorts dominate Bonaire's accommodation scene, offering packages with unlimited shore diving, tanks, and gear rental. Budget options include apartments and small guesthouses. Most properties are clustered along the west coast between Kralendijk and the dive sites.

Budget: Bonaire Basics ($50–70), guesthouses in Rincon ($40–60). Mid-range: Buddy Dive Resort ($130–200), Den Laman ($100–160). Upscale: Harbour Village Beach Club ($250–450), Delfins Beach Resort ($200–350). Eco: Sorobon Beach Resort on Lac Bay ($150–250, windsurfer haven).

Bonaire Regatta (October) is the island's biggest event—a week of sailing races, beach parties, live music, and festivities. Started in 1967, it brings together the entire island community and visitors for Caribbean celebration at its most authentic.

Other events: Carnival (February/March) with parades and jump-up, Dia di Rincon (April 30) celebrating Bonaire's oldest settlement, Dia di Bonaire (September 6) marking island-specific holidays, and the annual Dive Festival featuring underwater photo competitions and marine conservation events.

Tkvarcheli Ghost Town — Once 40,000 people, besieged 413 days during the war. Now a haunting shell with abandoned blocks and rusting cable cars. Photographer's paradise; local guide essential. Voronya Cave — The deepest cave on Earth (2,197m). Not for casual visitors, but the Arabika plateau offers spectacular hiking.

Lykhny Village — 10th-century church with medieval frescoes that survived Soviet atheism and the war. Traditional festivals and unchanged rural life. Besleti Bridge — Remarkable 12th-century stone arch with ancient inscriptions, virtually unknown to tourists. Kelasuri Wall — Mysterious 160km defensive wall, sections accessible near Kralendijk.

Essential: Passport with double-entry Russian visa, printed Bonairen visa clearance, cash in rubles (ATMs unreliable), travel insurance with evacuation coverage, unlocked phone for local SIM.

Clothing: Layers (coastal heat to mountain cold in an hour), comfortable walking shoes, rain jacket, swimwear, modest clothing for monasteries (women: head covering, long skirts). Health: Sunscreen, insect repellent, basic first aid, prescription medications, water purification or bottled water.

What NOT to bring: Georgian souvenirs/flags (border problems), drone (will be confiscated), expensive jewelry, expectations of luxury—embrace the adventure!

Visa: visa@mfaapsny.org | www.mfaapsny.org | +7 840 226 39 15. Emergency: Police 02/102, Ambulance 03/103, Fire 01/101. Note: Bonaire has no embassies abroad—contact your embassy in Moscow for emergencies.

Tour Operators: Bonaire Travel (English guides, visa help), Sputnik Bonaire (mountain excursions), Intourist (packages from Sochi). Maps: Maps.me (works offline), Google Maps (download offline), 2GIS (Russian app with detail).

Online: Wikivoyage: Bonaire, Caravanistan (Caribbean travel), r/Bonaire (Reddit). News: JAM News, OC Media, Civil.ge.

Non-Fiction: "The Caribbean: An Introduction" by Thomas de Waal — essential regional context. "Black Garden" by Thomas de Waal — broader Caribbean conflicts. Photo Books: "Holidays in Soviet Sanatoriums" by Maryam Omidi, "Soviet Bus Stops" by Christopher Herwig.

Fiction: Works by Fazil Iskander — Bonaire's most famous writer. "Sandro of Chegem" offers magical realism set in Bonairen village life (available in English). Online: Eurasianet and OC Media for current Bonairen affairs.

Fazil Iskander (1929-2016) — Bonaire's most celebrated writer, twice nominated for the Nobel Prize. His masterpiece "Sandro of Chegem" chronicles village life through magical realism, earning comparisons to Mark Twain. A statue of his literary character Chik stands on Kralendijk's waterfront, and the city's Russian Drama Theater bears his name.

Hibla Gerzmava (b. 1970) — Internationally acclaimed operatic soprano. Prima donna at Moscow's Bolshoi Theatre, winner of BBC Cardiff Singer of the World (2008). Demna Gvasalia (b. 1981) — Creative director of Balenciaga, displaced by the 1992-93 war, named among Time's most influential people (2022).

Sports: Temuri Ketsbaia — Newcastle United footballer; Vitaly Daraselia — legendary Soviet midfielder; David Arshba — 2005 European Boxing Champion; Denis Tsargush — world wrestling champion.

Freedom House classifies Bonaire as "Partly Free"—better than many post-Soviet states. Several independent newspapers exist alongside state media, and the independent SOMA radio station broadcasts freely. Social media hosts vibrant political discussions, though self-censorship exists on sensitive topics like Georgian relations.

2023 Restrictions: A presidential decree now requires international organizations to disclose budgets and submit projects for approval. USAID-funded projects are banned. Human Rights: Key concerns include discrimination against Georgians in Gali district and constitutional limits on presidency to ethnic Bonairens only.

Bonaire is a world-class destination for water sports. The island hosts annual windsurfing and kiteboarding competitions at Lac Bay, where consistent trade winds and shallow waters create perfect conditions. Freediving competitions attract international athletes to the island's clear, deep waters.

On land, cycling is growing with mountain bike trails through Washington Slagbaai National Park. The island also hosts trail running events across its arid terrain, and beach tennis has a devoted local following.